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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 2,852
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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  • Description 

    Climb the bottom of Elanor up left into two dynamic moves to its own chain anchors. The second dynamic move is the crux off of right-leaning slopers and tiny crystaline feet to a jug high and left. This is certainly one of the finer routes around which will shut down many comers due to the very cruxy nature of the climb. Good luck and have fun.


    8 bolts to chains.

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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 23, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 26, 2002

    Another good option is to climb the crux of Telltale Heart, move right above the roof, and hook up with Evermore. This link up is more sustained and flows like honey on hot cakes. Try and suppress the urge to lunge at the crux. Simply jack your right foot up to a good foothold and go all the way with your right hand. The left hand hold is bad (sloper) but body position make the move possible!
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 27, 2002

    The variation is called Nevermore and is rated 5.13.a. Starting on Tell Tale Heart would certainly add nicely to the pump factor.
    By Chris Archer
    Sep 6, 2004
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Great extension to Elanor. The no hands rest on Elanor makes this significantly less pumpy than Nevermore. Still requires creativity for the devious crux. 8 bolts.
    By ac
    Jun 6, 2005

    Any beta for the crux moves? From the slopey rail, it seems like a monsterous move to a jug. Any trickery here? The crux is difficult to work, since you end up taking repeated sizeable whippers while trying things out.
    By ?????
    Jun 7, 2005

    I think there are two ways to toss up to the uses a sharp R hand with a devious L foot higher than you want, the key is to keep the L foot on long enough to toss/stand up with you L hand to latch the jug.

    I think the other way involves going up with you R hand with lower, more even feet...better if you are taller.
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 9, 2014
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b left hand on good sloper...right hand on sharp crimp up high! From there, get your right foot up to a small chip and left foot high heel rock off the heel, and it's not that big of a throw to the jug! Enjoy! :)
    By Patrick Vernon
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Jul 9, 2014

    Or you guys could use the obvious finger lock, no dyno required!
    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    Jul 13, 2014
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Ha, that's funny Patrick. You're the only other person I 've heard uses that beta other than myself and I've seen lots of people on the finish. That finger lock becomes extra good with the perfect amount of tape on the ring finger you could almost shake out on it. Stellar climb anyway you do it.
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 22, 2015
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    A contrived problem of what is on and off. Grades easier than Nevermore...I think this route is in the 12b range, maybe 12c! Basically no pump going into the crux and then a much easier way to get into it with basically a V4 move to the jug!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jun 12, 2015
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    This was the third sport route established at the crag in May 1995. I don't know how you can call it contrived or .12b/c. The final crux is the same as Nevermore, but getting to the last bolt presents an interesting dyno as well. After clipping 7th bolt, I make a big dyno with my right hand to the good hold to clip last bolt from. Yes, you could avoid this dyno by traversing more left & doing this section the same way as Nevermore (.12a), but it feels run out enough I have always done the dyno. Cool move.
    The problem with rating it .12b/c, or even .12c, is this climb is at least two letter grades harder than Tell Tale Heart. I noticed that you are rating Tell Tale Heart (.12b), Train 4 Life. To say this is only half a letter grade harder is absurd. I originally rated Tell Tale Heart .12a, but after watching many climbers slightly shorter than me struggle, I decided it should be rated .12b & thus it was first guidebooked at that grade in 1996. So if you rate Tell Tale Heart (.12a/b), you could rate could rate Evermore (.12c/d). There are 8 bolts total.
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 14, 2017
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    I personally disagree. I have done both routes Nevermore and Evermore and believe that this is not very hard and gives you no pump. You also skip part of the crux, the traverse section. Then you do basically two moves of crux. It felt pretty easy and went 2nd go. I think it is definitely more in the 12b/c range and would say that Ten Digit Dialing is harder than this route, but I'm just climbing to have fun, and it was a fun route...I'm just giving an opinion.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 23, 2017
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Regardless of how you do the climbing getting to the last the last bolt, there are still two sections of 5.12 moves in a row - at the 7th bolt & the crux at the 8th (last) bolt. Traversing left out of the rest on Eleanor to reach the 7th bolt isn't hard.

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