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Eventyrblanding 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Thomas Vekve
Page Views: 246
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on May 9, 2016

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Eventyrblanding (Fairytale Mixture, a popular toba...

Description 

This is an incredible route that will test your head as well as your biceps as the cruxes are somewhat cerebral as well as powerful, a "FairyTale Mixture". Be prepared to battle slopers as rounded as a Norsk jenta's rumpe with your feet well above the last draw.

Same start as Drømdiedre and Massih Attack. Eventyrblanding is the left line. Usually there is a fixed rope on the first bolt if you want to pre-clip the second bolt (recommended, especially with a long draw to avoid rope drag over the roof). Start the climb in a beautiful, black and featured band of something I've never climbed anywhere else. Geologists? Crimp, stem and pinch up the corner and pull over the roof to a few crimpy moves separated by good rests. You'll move somewhat right of the bolt line and find yourself looking directly left at a slopey rail. Don't clip the bolt directly to your left, as this is for Drømdiedre and will reward you only with a large amount of rope drag.

Balance out the slopers and move to the flake, where you are rewarded with a bolt. Move left again into the crack before you bust out right on some slightly easier, but still airy moves to a stance where you can clip the last bolt. Hopefully you've still got some gas in the tank and you can ride the crimps to the anchors with ease.

Location 

Your best bet is to find a rope loop hanging off the first draw of a route to the right of the 50m long roof. It does not go out this roof, but has it's own roof about 5m off the ground. The route splits into three, and Eventyrblanding is the left-most of the routes. The start is just to the right of a discontinuous crack trad route that nobody ever does.

Protection 

Bolts. Approx 10.


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