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Event Horizon 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 14 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Kalous, Stephanie Bergner, Josh Wharton
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,874
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Oct 19, 2014

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Matt following starting pitch 4.

2016 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route climbs 7 or so pitches into Black Hole on the South Rim. Overall, the climbing is high quality and well-protected. Pitch 3 is particularly spectacular. The first three pitches were originally climbed in the late '80s/early '90s by Cary Gunther, et al as the start to an aid line called Harpua. The subsequent line is a mystery, but we suspect it followed much of what became Black Hole and/or Shadow Boxing. The first three 5/16" bolts are from this ascent.

P1. Start just left of a wet streak and garden. Three old bolts gain a long finger crack to flake. A wet spot can be mostly avoided with stemming. Belay in groove, 5.11-, 45m.

P2. Continue up corner to small roof and finger crack. Step left around tall flake. Get a hanging belay, 5.11-, 25m.

P3. Start up finger cracks to large roof and overhanging dihedral. Pass a fixed hex and pin. Continue up past another roof to a ledge. Head left into big corner and belay, 5.12-, 35m.

P4. Climb up and step right onto ledge. Climb the first open corner crack to the right. At a tall, loose looking spike, step right to another crack. Continue up and belay in corner below larger, right-leaning flake, 5.10, 20m. Note: Black Hole climbs a flake groove a little further right to the same spot.

P5. Climb up on top of giant flake and climb right past two bolts. Pass a small dihedral and continue right to good leaning crack. Climb up and over giant detached flake (The Singularity) and belay in corner on top. 5.11 40m.

P6. Climb up over small roof and follow crack to dihedral and ledge. Continue up past a pin and to left-leaning groove. Top out the groove in a short OW (a #4 Camalot is nice but maybe not necessary). Belay on ledge, 5.11+, 45m.

P7. Continue up left-leaning groove, 5.9, 25m.

P8. The route joins Black Hole here. A long pitch starts at 5.10, to 5.11, to a stout 5.12 crux at a fixed nut. Continue up dihedral through a roof and to a ledge. A small perch 5 more meters up is the belay, 5.12, 60m.

P9. Continue up broken terrain to a large, left-facing dihedral. Follow dihedral 25 more meters to below where it turns black. Place a high piece and step down and straight right 5 meters to a horn. This is easy but run out. Belay on horn, 5.11, 40m.

P10. Climb up through a bulge, then another headwall. Then head left across easier terrain to a right-facing corner. Go up and belay at the base of large, S-shaped flake (next pitch), 5.10, 50m.

P11. Climb the S-shaped flake to small ledge below short, crystalline, jam crack, 5.8, 30m.

P12. Climb the short, sharp crack. Arrive in the Upper Meadow, and head up right then left to find a decent rock on a large ledge to belay, 5.10+, 30m.

Continue up and left through grass and bushes, traversing an airy slab into the rap line somewhere between the 2nd and 3rd rap anchors (15m above the top of Tague Yer Time). Continue up choss gullies and such to the Astro Dog exit chimney and chain anchors at the top, 2 to 3 pitches. If this is new to you, make sure and look around while doing the first two rappels, because you will likely arrive here in the DARK!

Location 

Descend the Astro Slog rappels to access this route. Do one more rap PAST the Astro Dog start. Traverse right into large bowl and meadow from the last rap. Black Hole is the huge dihedral on the left side of this amphitheater. Event Horizon starts to the right of Black Hole and just left of a wet streak and hanging garden.

You can also access this area from North side via the tyrolean traverse over the river. Go up and left from the tyrolean. The Black Hole dihedral is obvious from space, look right from there at nearly the apex of the amphitheater for the hanging garden and Event Horizon.

Protection 

One or two very small cams. Doubles fingers to yellow Camalot. 1 #3 Camalot. 1 #4 Camalot is optional. Lots 'o nuts including wee ones.


Photos of Event Horizon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt following pitch 1.
Matt following pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Topo.

Comments on Event Horizon Add Comment
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By j wharton
Oct 20, 2014

This is a quality route. No Tague Yer Time, but certainly one of the better routes on the South Chasm View Wall. The first 5.12 pitch is one of the coolest, most unique pitches in the Black. The route climbs relatively long, because it lacks the very easy middle section found on most of the routes to the left. All the climbing is reasonably well-protected by Black standards, and there is very little choss. Nice job, Chris and Steph, and thanks for letting me tag along.
By chris Kalous
Nov 2, 2014

NOTE: When Josh and I did the FFA, I linked pitches 4 and 5, and 6 and 7, but drag was a little rough in the 4/5 link. On the 6/7 link, I had used my big cams up, so I ran out pitch 7 a good 50 feet, but it can be done.
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Sep 13, 2015

Good free climb for sure! One of the best down there. Definitely link p6-7, I had no cams either but soloed it pretty much. The 3rd p crux is actually after the overhang I thought. Good 12 hr climb for us but had friends pass us at a 6hr pace! The upper crux p is full on for about 12-15'!
By chris righter
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I'm not sure why you guys are not giving it 4 stars. I thought it was really good. Second only to TYT for S. Rim routes. Astro Dog finish pitches detract a little, but you have to do those on TYT also. Fun engaging climbing, on solid rock throughout.

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