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Petrifying Wall
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Even Steven 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,697
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Jul 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Description 

Steep climbing off the ground quickly leads to a blocky horn and small slab (bolted anchor). From the left-facing-corner above the slab, follow cracks and a surprising number of face holds, passing one or two small overhangs. Step leftward ~25 feet before the top of the wall into a new crack which leads to the chains. This route requires a bit of every type of technique. The beautiful ocean view from the top is well-deserved. Although given only 2/5 stars in the Select Guide, this route is a classic. McClane gets it right in his book... "a tour-de-force of 5.10 climbing".

Location 

At the far left end of the Pet Wall, a few small roofs and obvious clean cracks mark this route. It is also immediately left of the bolted "No Name Road".

Protection 

Double set of cams, and a set of nuts. RPs or offset cams can be used.

With a 60m rope, you may need to use the slab anchor ~10m off the ground, in order to get back down. Definitely have your belayer tie into the rope if you're on a 60m.


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By David Bruneau
From: St. John
Aug 22, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

There's a jug on this after the crux that moves if you pull out on it. Scared me quite a bit. Not quite PG13 but the pro on this is sometimes a bit strange or thin, some of the rock is hollow and you can't place gear everywhere. Bring lots of long slings.

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