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Steep climbing off the ground quickly leads to a blocky horn and small slab (bolted anchor). From the left-facing-corner above the slab, follow cracks and a surprising number of face holds, passing one or two small overhangs. Step leftward ~25 feet before the top of the wall into a new crack which leads to the chains. This route requires a bit of every type of technique. The beautiful ocean view from the top is well-deserved. Although given only 2/5 stars in the Select Guide, this route is a classic. McClane gets it right in his book... "a tour-de-force of 5.10 climbing".
At the far left end of the Pet Wall, a few small roofs and obvious clean cracks mark this route. It is also immediately left of the bolted "No Name Road".
Double set of cams, and a set of nuts. RPs or offset cams can be used.
With a 60m rope, you may need to use the slab anchor ~10m off the ground, in order to get back down. Definitely have your belayer tie into the rope if you're on a 60m.
By David Bruneau
From: St. John
Aug 22, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
There's a jug on this after the crux that moves if you pull out on it. Scared me quite a bit. Not quite PG13 but the pro on this is sometimes a bit strange or thin, some of the rock is hollow and you can't place gear everywhere. Bring lots of long slings.