Even Cowgirls Get the Blues
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|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
Excellent climb! Exciting to lead; I thought it was a bit runout on the mid and upper part of the route, and ALL of 5.9 (10A?). As with Wailing Banshee, a stick clip would be nice for the first bolt, though at least the landing is good. Start just left of the Bronc, and make a difficult, heady move to clip the first bolt. Then follow the bolts up for some thrilling and great climbing. About 80 feet up, step slightly right and climb an obvious 20 foot 5.7/8 crack to the top. Look out for loose rock at the top of the crack. Step left to a large ledgy area and find two old bolts for the belay.
Start just left of the Bronc. First bolt is about 12 feet up. Single rope rappel down Wailing Banshee.
4 or 5 good bolts and a couple pieces for the crack (stoppers to #2 BD cam).