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> Stawamus Chief
> Dihedrals
Europa
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A0
Avg: 1.8 from 26
votes
Routes in The Dihedrals
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50 Foot Quiche, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Bombay Sapphire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Deadend Dihedral T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Europa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Freeway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gauntlet, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Men Holding Hands T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Millenium Falcon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Never Ending Traverse, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Parallax View, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Planet Caravan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sea of Tranquility T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stone Free T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Stélmexw T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Sunset Strip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Warriors of the Wasteland T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 850 ft (258 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,824 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Teschke on Aug 2, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31.
Details
Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. See the BC parks website for more details: env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explo…
From the BC Parks site:
Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).
Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).
From the BC Parks site:
Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).
Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).
Description
This route is a recent project that has generated a lot of online (and likely offline) debate in the last couple years. The goal was to clean a line that beginners could climb that basically tops out on the chief. It actually ends at Bellygood Ledge, and I think the easiest finish to summit the first peak would be 4 pitches on the Upper Black Dyke at a sportingly bolt protected 5.10b rating.
I found it enjoyable, and fairly 'adventurous' for mostly 5.7 climbing. There are some loose flakes and blocks on the route and gear placements are not always simple. All of the pitches are 100 feet long or longer.
Pitch 1 - 5.7 Start about 100 yards to the right of the Black Dyke, up a blocky chimney/corner crack system that is packed tight with table sized flakes. There is a spacious belay ledge. Gear belay.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 Head up a pretty nice hand crack right off the belay ledge, probably the crux of the climb and quite nice for about 30ft. Follow ledges and cracks to a belay at a large fir tree.
Pitch 3 - 5.7 Finger crack crux near the top.
Pitch 4 - 5.5 Climb up a tree to the top of a large flake. Traverse right and climb up into a chimney with terrible protection and brittle nasty feeling rock. Gigantic Bolted belay. This is apparently the start of a rap line to use during falcon closures and can be rapped with a single 60m rope.
Pitch 5 - 5.6 Mostly easy climbing.
Pitch 6 - 5.7, A0 Starts with a nine bolt ladder to reach a hand/fist crack. Belay below the chimney. (Apparently there is a free variation that goes to the left of the belay station up a protectable chimney corner then traverses back right into the start of the hand crack. I am not sure what the grade goes at but I'd guess no harder 5.10-?)
Pitch 7 - 5.6 Fun series of chimneys to the top.
I found it enjoyable, and fairly 'adventurous' for mostly 5.7 climbing. There are some loose flakes and blocks on the route and gear placements are not always simple. All of the pitches are 100 feet long or longer.
Pitch 1 - 5.7 Start about 100 yards to the right of the Black Dyke, up a blocky chimney/corner crack system that is packed tight with table sized flakes. There is a spacious belay ledge. Gear belay.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 Head up a pretty nice hand crack right off the belay ledge, probably the crux of the climb and quite nice for about 30ft. Follow ledges and cracks to a belay at a large fir tree.
Pitch 3 - 5.7 Finger crack crux near the top.
Pitch 4 - 5.5 Climb up a tree to the top of a large flake. Traverse right and climb up into a chimney with terrible protection and brittle nasty feeling rock. Gigantic Bolted belay. This is apparently the start of a rap line to use during falcon closures and can be rapped with a single 60m rope.
Pitch 5 - 5.6 Mostly easy climbing.
Pitch 6 - 5.7, A0 Starts with a nine bolt ladder to reach a hand/fist crack. Belay below the chimney. (Apparently there is a free variation that goes to the left of the belay station up a protectable chimney corner then traverses back right into the start of the hand crack. I am not sure what the grade goes at but I'd guess no harder 5.10-?)
Pitch 7 - 5.6 Fun series of chimneys to the top.
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