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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A0

Type:  Trad, Aid, 7 pitches, 850'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A0 [details]
Page Views: 2,708
Submitted By: Mike Teschke on Aug 2, 2009

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"Europa", pitch 7

Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>


This route is a recent project that has generated a lot of online (and likely offline) debate in the last couple years. The goal was to clean a line that beginners could climb that basically tops out on the chief. It actually ends at Bellygood Ledge, and I think the easiest finish to summit the first peak would be 4 pitches on the Upper Black Dyke at a sportingly bolt protected 5.10b rating.

I found it enjoyable, and fairly 'adventurous' for mostly 5.7 climbing. There are some loose flakes and blocks on the route and gear placements are not always simple. All of the pitches are 100 feet long or longer.

Pitch 1 - 5.7 Start about 100 yards to the right of the Black Dyke, up a blocky chimney/corner crack system that is packed tight with table sized flakes. There is a spacious belay ledge. Gear belay.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 Head up a pretty nice hand crack right off the belay ledge, probably the crux of the climb and quite nice for about 30ft. Follow ledges and cracks to a belay at a large fir tree.
Pitch 3 - 5.7 Finger crack crux near the top.
Pitch 4 - 5.5 Climb up a tree to the top of a large flake. Traverse right and climb up into a chimney with terrible protection and brittle nasty feeling rock. Gigantic Bolted belay. This is apparently the start of a rap line to use during falcon closures and can be rapped with a single 60m rope.
Pitch 5 - 5.6 Mostly easy climbing.
Pitch 6 - 5.7, A0 Starts with a nine bolt ladder to reach a hand/fist crack. Belay below the chimney. (Apparently there is a free variation that goes to the left of the belay station up a protectable chimney corner then traverses back right into the start of the hand crack. I am not sure what the grade goes at but I'd guess no harder 5.10-?)
Pitch 7 - 5.6 Fun series of chimneys to the top.


This climb runs basically up the same location as Crap Crags with much cleaning and some variations on the lines. It climbs up the large blocky ledge and flake system that forms the divide between the grand wall and the Diherals.


Doubles to #2 Camalot, 1 #3. I didn't use much gear smaller than a purple cam. Mostly gear belays.

Photos of Europa Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Europa", pitch 4 tree
"Europa", pitch 4 tree
Rock Climbing Photo: "Europa", pitch 6
"Europa", pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: "Europa", pitch 7
"Europa", pitch 7
Rock Climbing Photo: "Europa", pitch 6
"Europa", pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: "Europa", pitch 4
"Europa", pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Europa pitch 2
Europa pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 3
pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 1
pitch 1

Comments on Europa Add Comment
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By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
Aug 19, 2011

Apparently Kevin McLane published this route in his newest Western Canada guide book. His opinion on the grades differs from mine. Consider giving that a look if 5.8 or 5.9 trad leading is at the limit of your comfort zone or if you think your climbing parnter may struggle seconding 5.8.
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0

We started with Arrowroot and then traversed to join the route. I would not recommend doing that - it got sketchy. Both me and my partner found the climb a little stiff for the grade. Apparently the bolt ladder has been removed (we didn't confirm this, but were told by the party in front). The bolted 10d line (part of the Gauntlet I believe) now has 5 or 6 bolts and could be aided to the crack. I would suggest trying it free as it's very well bolted now and the leader will have a bolt above their waist for every hard move.
By nealg
Jul 5, 2015

Did this route on 7/5/14. Definitely didn't see any 'bolt ladder' on P6. Did the 6th p via the 5-6 bolts to an awkward hand crack. P6 felt like the crux overall...maybe 5.9ish.

Interesting routefinding and a modest amount of looseness. Definitely not a good one for the new 5.8 leader. Felt like an true alpine adventure.
By Lilli Kuechle
From: Squamish, BC
Oct 5, 2015

Tried to climb this route yesterday, and got a lesson that Squamish routes can change incredibly quickly. This route is overgrown and dirty, with the feature hand crack on the second pitch completely filled in by mushrooms and dirt. As usual with this route, loose rock is still present and sketchy as hell. Pretend you're in the desert and test each hold and you'll be fine.
My partner and I can lead most 5.9-5.10a pretty comfortably, but this route was at the limit of our abilities. I feel it's graded far too low, with the first pitch being closer to 5.9 and the second around the same. Definitely not for the novice, be prepared for sketchy runouts and difficulty bailing before the top of the second pitch, as well as steep rock relative to the usual low-angle crack and slab common to Squam. If you have questions about whether you're able to do this, bring two ropes so you can do a single rope rap to the ground off of the tree on the second pitch, or bring a hex and leave gear at the first belay station.

One star, 5.9 A1 (from the sounds of it, the bolt ladder is gone but we didn't see it firsthand.)
By Chuck Burr
From: Ashland, OR
Jul 27, 2016

This route has been cleaned up. It is a wonderful full day introduction to climbing to the top of The Chief without a lot of hiking or having to be a solid 5.10–11.

Route beta, pitch 6 take the 4-5 bolts to the 5.10d entry to the super easy 5.7 crack. Its cruxy getting into the slightly overhanging flared entry to the crack system, stand on a sling if you need to but it will keep you out of the shrubs on the left. Follow the direct rout up the to the ledge before the pitch.

Okay, the last pitch. climb pitch six until you enter the chimney in a level place, 35 meters. Start of pitch 7 from inside the chimney, climb up out to the left, then it is stairway to heaven on to the rim. Protect the last moves with a #3 Camalot.

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