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Ethnic Cleansing 

Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Luke Parady?
Page Views: 1,116
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Mar 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Working Ethnic Cleansing. Not sure if this is the ...

Description 

Make a long reach to a small hold on a severely overhanging arete. Then work up as high as possible and rock up onto the slab to finish on the slab. Very fun.

Location 

On the trail from Round Pond to Boulder Natural, just past Comrad and right next to the trail.

Protection 

Pad


Photos of Ethnic Cleansing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me standing on top of this awesome problem
Me standing on top of this awesome problem

Comments on Ethnic Cleansing Add Comment
Show which comments
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Mar 12, 2008

Does anyone know anything about a sit start to this problem?
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 12, 2013
rating: V6-7 7A+

So, are you more or less rocking onto the slab when you have the high right crimp in your right hand? Or are you moving even higher and trying to get to the jugs/edges up and right?
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Sep 13, 2013

You'll just want to get your feet on the start holds whenever you can and then start working your way up the slab. I found a right palm on the arete worked better for me than the crimp. Be careful you don't smash your shins.
By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Mar 26, 2014

I really enjoyed the movement for gaining the slab. For me it was a press from hanging underneath to full extension with the high right hand. Haven't experienced a move like that in the park before.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 17, 2014
rating: V6-7 7A+

This ended up climbing so much differently than I expected it to. My beta was similar to Bryce's. (So thanks for the beta!)

It also ended up being nowhere near as cool as I thought it would be. If only this climbed as good as it looked. Bizarre and difficult to grade.

I also thought the finishing moves (after establishing on the slab) would be more casual than they ended up being. I climbed this today and the slab was still damp from the heavy rain over the past few days. That made the tenuous and technical finishing moves very exciting! Especially alone with only two pads.
By Graham O.
Oct 23, 2016
rating: V5 6C PG13

This thing is amazing!! It honestly felt no harder than v5, but that's not to say it wasn't absolutely classic. The transition onto the slab was gold! The slab was pretty tough until you got the vertical jug rail. More people should try this, I honestly think it's one of the best in Pway!

About the sit start, Keith did it a year or two ago and called it a very worthy v8 including a slap to a sloping pinch on the arete and the use of the chalked-up underclings on the roof. It's featured in his fantastic 14 minute "Pawtuckaway Bouldering" video. I have also heard that there is a project that uses the undercling rail on the roof and slaps up the arete until you reach the jug rail rather than transitioning onto the slab. Maybe v12?


Footage starts at 6.10:
photos.google.com/share/AF1Qip...