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Ethnic Cleansing 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore, 1993
Page Views: 4,253
Submitted By: FCJohn on Dec 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Henry Robinson making the dyno move of Ethnic Clea...


Outstanding Foster Falls test piece at the grade. Moderate 5.11 climbing leads to one distinct dyno (a static move for climbers over 6 ft) crux with strenuous climbing until you reach the chain anchor.


On the right side of the Right Bunker.


Six Bolts to a chain anchor

Photos of Ethnic Cleansing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Henry Robinson on the face of Ethnic Cleansing
Henry Robinson on the face of Ethnic Cleansing

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By 426
Feb 28, 2007

DCA gives this a 12b/c, but it may be harder since a block at the anchor fell off a few years ago. I think it's solid c.

For me, crux was making the anchor clip.

Could use bolt replacement on crux "spinner". The consequences of that bolt failing could be very dire.
By bbrock
From: Al
Mar 24, 2007

I noticed that bolt needs it nut tightened. Maybe a glue in would be better. Yes the consequences of that bolt failing would be about as bad as it gets
By Ryan Johnson
From: chattanooga tn
May 21, 2007

Ethnic is solid 12b. The 'dyno' is a trick move that is maybe V1. The redpoint crux is usually clipping the chains.

As of 19May2007 both anchor biners are new.
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 8, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

12a and the worst route in the right bunker. I can only assume its popularity is due to the crazy soft grade that people want to give this route. Abacus and Bottled Up Warrior are so much better and only 30 feet away.
By Gregg
From: Englewood
Jul 9, 2008

Fun route, but no better than 2 stars. Probably 12A.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Oct 11, 2012

I believe the recent perma-draw work was done by the Action Fund.
By Gable
May 26, 2014

The first perma draw needs replacing if someone can let the appropriate people know. The pin/axle holding the gate can and will back out and the cable is fraying from constant rubbing.
By jamie cummins
Aug 22, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

soft for the grade, one move wonder, if your tall its 11b.
By Christopher Deal
From: Fargo, ND
Mar 2, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun circus route. Just a thought on the grade...and this is just my opinion. Very soft 12a. If you figure out the bottom it's not very hard. The "jump" move is not very tricky if you can figure out how to match on slopers. The finish is the only real climbing. So 5.11 to sit down rest, to V2 to a good shake to a V3 harder than 12a, almost put 11d but the anchor clip is a bit pumpy. Bottled Up Warrior is much harder than this, especially if you are tall.

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