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Eternity Road 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b X [details]
FA: Steve Grossman, Peter Noebels, Brad Smith,'81
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 5, 2010

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Description 

Some questionable rock at the bottom and near the crux made this climb a little unnerving as did a very old ring piton at the crux. A bolt has replaced the manky old pin since there isn't natural pro nearby. I turned the bulge left of the pin then worked back right to the crack the first time up. The second time (with a new bolt next to the old pins location) I stayed just left of the crack and found the moves to be pretty hard.

With help from Jim Scott and Geir Hundal, I added a 5.11- R two bolt direct finish to this climb. It heads up the face between Seventh Soujourn and Question of Balance. You might wander a bit getting past the first bolt but then it pretty much climbs straight past the second bolt to a very shallow horizontal where an orange Metolius cam just fits. Then it goes straight up for another 10 feet or so. Thin and tenuous climbing as well as the potential of breaking your ankles keep it in the spirit of the rest of the route even though I top roped it to figure out where the bolts should go then rap drilled them. John Steiger in the first guidebook described this route as a "worthy contrivance". This is because it would be easy to move left or right a bit and avoid the difficult moves. I think this applies to the direct finish as well.

Location 

Starts just left of 7th Sojourn in the gully between Mean Mistreater Slab and Faded Rock.

Protection 

2 yellow camalots and singles of everything else down. Some steel or brass wired stoppers might help.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
May 30, 2010

The fixed pin protecting the crux bulge was replaced with a bolt as no other gear was available. The ring blade was only in about 3/4 of an inch and after 2 whacks in each direction it came out with my fingers. I never trust fixed pins for this reason. It might have held body weight but not much more than that. Might have been better when Steve Grossman did the FA in 1981 but as shallow as the pin was driven in probably not much better.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 6, 2010

Did a direct finish (see description) to this route yesterday. I am reevaluating the X rating that this climb originally had as a fall moving up and left to reach the first placement might kill you as you are about thirty feet up. You are not that far up from where you start the route but as you move left on to the main face you are high enough that you would sustain serious injury or die. The moves are not that hard (5.9 or so) but the rock is a tad funky at the start.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 8, 2010

intense and spooky. i followed EFR up this route; the beginning is runout on some bad rock. it's a bold lead here. up higher, more gear can be found; this is good because some of the climbing is awkward or just plain hard. the direct finish maintains the bold and tricky feel of the original route and is a much nicer way to end the climb.

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