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Eternal Recurrence 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: equipped by Steve Damboise/ Peter Beal, FFA Peter Beal
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,150
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Apr 24, 2002

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  • Description 

    Eternal Recurrence is the route right of Primeval. Start with a difficult, short groove that leads to the big, central shelf. Sit down and rest. Then tackle the upper bulge by traversing back left to a very difficult move to the obvious rail. A technical and balancy rockover leads to the final groove and the anchors. I'm not grading this, because to me the route is really two roped boulder problems with a sit-down rest in between, the first being V9/10 and the upper being solid V10. Since others may find these sections easier, as happened with Primeval, or find a way around them, as with Shine, I won't be more specific.

    (Now that this route has gone eight years without a repeat, I am upgrading it to 5.14a in the hope that it will gain more traffic and there will emerge a better consensus on the difficulty)


    8 bolts/anchors.

    Comments on Eternal Recurrence Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 23, 2003

    Does anyone know if this route has been repeated? Thanks.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 2, 2003

    I don't think it's seen a repeat or even much work. Every time I've been up there this year there hasn't been any chalk.
    By tcamillieri
    From: Denver
    Sep 25, 2008

    ...or the next year, or the year after that...or after that.
    By Luke Childers
    Oct 31, 2009

    Hey Peter,
    I have looked at Eternal Recurrence since before even "Shine" was bolted and always thought it to be an interesting looking line... possibly even my style.

    It's a good possibility I will be over at "Primo" in the morning and I'm going to put a little chalk on that bad boy just for your efforts!!! I will let you know how it goes.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Oct 31, 2009

    Good luck, Luke. I think with this snow it may take a while to dry. Let me know if you need any beta.
    By chris schulte
    Apr 11, 2010

    Peter, this route seems pretty brutal. I did the moves on the upper, but before the ledge... wow, ouch, and geez. Nice job.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Apr 11, 2010

    Thanks, Chris. It's a strange one.
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Mar 14, 2013

    To whomever left their Petzel draws on Eternal Recurrence: I removed them the other day and put them on other routes that had worse hardware on them. If you want them back, they're on Shine and Crying Flyboys. I'm sorry if this is a huge inconvenience for you, but after they had been hanging for a year, a few of us decided they would be better served on other routes that see more traffic but have a few bad draws. But my guess is whomever draws these are will never come back and probably does not care.
    By Jonathan Siegrist
    From: his truck
    Oct 22, 2016

    I have been curious about this pitch for years and finally adventured my way up it today. It was not at all straightforward climbing - both cruxes are perplexing. Personally I found the bottom half to be much harder than the upper half. Definitely worthwhile. Get to it while it has (a little) chalk on it!

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