UFO Arete with Landing Strip in the background
This small crag was developed during the winter and spring of 2009. Although very limited in size, the quality of the rock and climbing makes it worth a visit. The relatively short approach doesnt hurt, either. Expect quality stone (Grandfather-style) and mostly well protected climbing. The routes tend to be short but sustained. The crag stays shaded most of the day. There is some cool undeveloped bouldering potential down here for someone willing to clean rocks and trim rhodos.
Walk east past the metal gate for about 0.8 miles. You will go through 2 fields and a down a steep section through some rhodos. The trail will get a bit flatter as you gain the ridge. Soon, the trail gets steep for the second time, and there will be some small boulders sticking up out of the trail. These are the first boulders actually in the trail. Shortly after this will be a large dead/rotten tree parallel to the trail on the left, hopefully with a cairn. Turn left here and follow the trail 300 down to the crag. The gully will come in at the far right.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For ET Wall
UFO Arete 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b North Carolina
: Lettered Rock Ridge
: ET Wall
This route features power-endurance climbing at its finest. Probably only 40 feet of hard climbing, but every single move will push you. Boulder the start to the route's only jug and clip the 2nd bolt from a decent hold above it. Slap your way up the slopey rail until you can quickly fire in some gear from a poor hold and pull a final boulder problem to a horizontal rail. Mantle the rail and summit the cliff on easier terrain to find an anchor. Fun, pumpy, and unique for the region....[more] Browse More Classics in North Carolina
From: Birmingham, AL
Jun 5, 2009
Awesome to see this up. Leave it this time. Naysayers can jump in a lake. Good work.
From: western NC
Aug 6, 2009
Checked it out the other day. Very nice and compact wall. Same great rock as Hawksbill and the Linville River Crag. The trail is quite a nice mtn bike ride too, though I'm not sure where it leads to after the crag. Has anyone here been any further? Also, where are those tall slabs in relation to this crag?
By Ben Sachs
Oct 21, 2010
Looks like I'm going to be leaving town before finishing some projects down here. If anyone ever climbs here, there are some pre-bolted FA's for you to grab. One line branches right off UFO Arete after the first crux and climbs the center of the main wall. SUPER PROUD. Bring a piece of gear. Will be 5.13 most likely. Another route starts directly left of Close Encounters and goes to the same anchor. This just needs cleaning and may only be 5.12. Ignore the red tag, it's open. HAPPY SENDING!