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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 310'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 6, 2009

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I've only done the first pitch, so information for the 2-4 pitches is not first hand. Located 5 routes to the right of the cave, between Tia Melis and Danzomania, climb the row of bolts that passes the tufa that looks like a pair of buttocks or breasts to a bolted anchor.

If you are doing more than the first pitch, this route requires two two rope rappels to reach the bottom. A single 60m or 70m rope will not get you down!

Pitch 1: 5.9 70 feet
Climb bolts past the buttocks feature.

Pitch 2: 5.9 50 feet
Traverse left below the belay of Tia Melis, next belay is up and left.
Don't continue straight up unless you want to do the 6c variation called Chungui chunguez.

Pitch 3: 5.8 70 feet
Climb left up and right to join the anchors of Tia Melis.

Pitch 4: 5.8 140 feet
(Optional) continue to the top.

Listed as P1: 5+, P2: 5+, P3: 5 and P4: 5 under the French system.


50 feet to the right of the cave which marks the start of Comechochos



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By Michael G
Jul 10, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The bolts on the first pitch are bit spaced for Mallorcan standards. I can't speak for the rest of the route, I rapped from first set of anchors.

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