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Bird's Nest T 
Captain Hooks T 
Dacker Cracker T,TR 
Drop, Fly, or Die T 
Esthesia T 
Eternity T 
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 
It's Only Entertainment T 
Jelly Arms T,TR 
Key, The T 
Lycanthropia T 
Monkey See, Monkey Do T 
Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 
On The Loose T 
Peace In Our Climbs T 
Pumpernickel T 
Romano's Route T 
Slim Pickins T 
Wheelin N' Dealin T 
White Knight T 
Yvonne T 
Zabba T 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA--Grant Calder, John Wald, and Dave Cilley, 7/28/76 FFA--Todd Eastman and Dave Cilley, 4/77
Page Views: 8,497
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
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Esthesia Photo by AJ


es-th-sia (n)--"The ability or capacity for sensation or feeling; sensitivity."

Rather ironic, considering this route often leaves a climber's forearms numb and devoid of feeling!

Just to the left of Slim Pickins is the exquisite outside corner of Esthesia. Marked by the 5 to 6 inch wide overhanging corner, this line epitomizes all that is essential for classic Dacks climbing: Desperately pumpy, intimidating climbing with almost impeccable gear (read: a slight runout on pumpy terrain.).

Start this line of strength on the ramp-like feature about 10 feet off the ground. Climb through a series of vertical cracks, surmount a small roof and gain a good rest below the crux second roof.

Place a #5 Camalot as high as you can in the wide crack and punch it through the steep, pumpy, AND unnerving layback with smeary feet. Rumor has it that this section can be climbed as an offwidth, but visual documentation is still at large.

Easier climbing above deposits the climber at the shared chain anchors with Slim Pickins atop the nice, spacious belay ledge.


The large outside corner to the left of Slim Pickins.


A loaded rack! Carry stoppers and a small assortment of aliens, plus doubles in everything from a .75 to #3 Camalot, and a #5 for the offwidth.

Photos of Esthesia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle Peet coming up Esthesia.
Kyle Peet coming up Esthesia.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Esthesia crux being done as an akward offwidth...
The Esthesia crux being done as an akward offwidth...
Rock Climbing Photo: burly laybacking..
burly laybacking..
Rock Climbing Photo: Esthesia
BETA PHOTO: Esthesia
Rock Climbing Photo: The full route
The full route
Rock Climbing Photo: The grim alternative to laybacking...
The grim alternative to laybacking...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid crux.
Mid crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning the physical layback of Esthesia.
Beginning the physical layback of Esthesia.

Comments on Esthesia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 29, 2009

Thanks for the "visual documentation" of the off-width technique required to battle this beast!
By climberKJ
From: Holderness, NH
Sep 28, 2009

Get in it. It's good. Can get through crux just fine with a #4.
By Ryan Williams
From: London (sort of)
May 22, 2010

For sure it's an OW. I suck at all sorts of cracks and still managed to avoid the layback until the last few feet.

Also, I think the biggest piece we had was a 3.5
By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yeah, a # 4 BD is a godsend on this thing--so much fun! Just the first 20 feet or so are a little unnerving until you hit the first jug to get something in. If you get really sketched off the deck, you should be able to fit a red C3 in the finger slot before you hit the first hand rail. but then you are short a hold.
By timtimladiesandgentlemen
Jul 23, 2012

can get by with a #4 C4, but you'll be happier if you have a #5.
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Sep 17, 2012

A #4 protects the crux pretty well but a #5 would really make you feel good!
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Sep 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I used a #5 and jammed the thing, laybacks make me nervous. Great jamming through the finish.
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 2, 2013

I did the OW section differently than that guy in the photo (didn't layback, either).
By sara pax
From: western mass
Aug 9, 2015

If for some reason you arrive at the crux with a #2 c4 as your largest piece, you can place it deep in the crack not quite tipped out. You can then "confidently" jam/offwidth your way to the top disregarding the ever growing runout. Just saying.
(Note: if you "choose" to do this, try not to nudge said #2 with your foot as you shimmy up the crack. You probably won't be able to see it to be sure it isn't fully tipped out at this point)
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Jan 9, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Despite previous comments, having a number 5 is very convenient. It protects the crux perfectly. I would strongly recommend bringing one.

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