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Essential knots for climbers
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Apr 11, 2013
Just lowering your partner onto a prussik secured to the anchor will get you out of the belay, sure, but you'll potentially get your partner stuck, you now can't lower him out later if you need to. You should know to secure the prussik to your anchor with a load releasable knot, like a munter-mule, so you get your partner back on belay later if you need to.

Edit - He asked for "Essential knots for climbers" that covers a pretty broad spectrum of things depending on what you're doing, and I think we're taking it to mean different things. If you're a beginner and doing sport/single pitch with easy anchors the lists are much shorter, and figure 8 and clove going to be the bulk of what you need, maybe add in an Autoblock for the occasional rappel and water-knot for tying webbing and grapevine for tying cord.
Larry S
From Easton, Pennsylvania
Joined May 28, 2010
575 points
Apr 11, 2013
97% of climbing:

Overhand
Eight
Clove

2%:

Munter
Butterfly
Girth Hitch or Basket Hitch
Bowline

Less than 1%:

Munter Mule
Friction hitch
Releasable friction hitch
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Nov 8, 2015
Knots 3D


Alpine Butterfly


Bunny Ears


Prusik


Figure 8


Flat Overhand Bend (EDK)
nynix
Joined Nov 8, 2015
5 points
Nov 8, 2015
If anyone needs to learn how to use all these knots and hitches - not just tie them, it is a beginner on multi-pitch.

Because they are likely not the one doing most of the leading and so more likely to have to aid a seriously injured partner.

Unless the beginner climbs with more than one knowledgable person on a given day ... or hires a guide.
Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Joined Apr 16, 2006
1,391 points
Nov 9, 2015
Great thread. Good replies.

Seems like the #1 most used knot is the clove hitch. Every climber should become proficient in this. Simply an amazing knot.
Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
522 points
Nov 9, 2015
Greg D wrote:
97% of climbing: Overhand Eight Clove 2%: Munter Butterfly Girth Hitch or Basket Hitch Bowline Less than 1%: Munter Mule Friction hitch Releasable friction hitch


I guess you don't climb somewhere that requires rapping off 2 ropes...
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
201 points
Nov 9, 2015
ViperScale wrote:
I guess you don't climb somewhere that requires rapping off 2 ropes...


Umm? Strange guess since I mention the over hand. Hello?
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Nov 9, 2015
Greg D wrote:
Umm? Strange guess since I mention the over hand. Hello?


Alot braver than me if you rappel off 2 ropes tied together with an overhand, maybe it is just my experience with an overhand I only use it for something with less than a 1% chance of being weighted. I don't like overhands and don't trust them at all.
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
201 points
Administrator
Nov 9, 2015
ViperScale wrote:
Alot braver than me if you rappel off 2 ropes tied together with an overhand.

The EDK? Best knot for 2x rope rapping, look into it. Fast tie, flat profile, and best, totally safe. It takes only one fat knot stuck in a crack in the dark to change your mind.
As with any knot, just check it every rap. If you are sketched, tie 2!
my $.02
Muscrat
Joined Oct 27, 2011
3,708 points
Nov 9, 2015
Muscrat wrote:
The EDK? Best knot for 2x rope rapping, look into it. Fast tie, flat profile, and best, totally safe. It takes only one fat knot stuck in a crack in the dark to change your mind. As with any knot, just check it every rap. If you are sketched, tie 2! my $.02


Given It shouldn't untie if it is weighted but having doing long multi pitch rappels I much prefer a knot that I can weight and unweight without worry of it untying itself. I guess maybe I have seen overhands untie themself to many times for my likes. I prefer fisher because I know it doesn't matter what happens outside the rope being cut or me rappelling of the end there is no way it will untie.
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
201 points
Nov 9, 2015
Overhand variants
-fishermans
-Zeppelin bend
-tape/water knot
-competition knot
-overhand bight
-stopper
-triple t fishermans
-double t fishermans

And on and on. Overhand=most versatile knot
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
163 points
Nov 9, 2015
Every knot deserves an inspection each rappel. The over hand is not unique in that way. It doesn't untie itself even weighted and unweighted either. It might possibly the safest knot for joining ropes all things considered, ease to tie, ease to untie, ease to inspect, least likely to snag, etc. Some may still debate it though. But, it has probably become the most common way to join ropes for rappel. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Nov 9, 2015
Blood knot. Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,605 points
Nov 9, 2015
Greg D wrote:
Every knot deserves an inspection each rappel. The over hand is not unique in that way. It doesn't untie itself even weighted and unweighted either. It might possibly the safest knot for joining ropes all things considered, ease to tie, ease to untie, ease to inspect, least likely to snag, etc. Some may still debate it though. But, it has probably become the most common way to join ropes for rappel.


That is why I don't like overhand because it will untie itself unless it is weighted. Until you have something like body weight on it it can untie itself I have seen a well dressed overhand as a backup knot at the bottom of a rappel untie itself.
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
201 points
Nov 9, 2015
You can tie 2 ropes togheter with a double blood knot or double clinch knot. Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,605 points
Nov 9, 2015
ViperScale wrote:
That is why I don't like overhand because it will untie itself unless it is weighted. Until you have something like body weight on it it can untie itself I have seen a well dressed overhand as a backup knot at the bottom of a rappel untie itself.



Clearly, we are not talking about the same knot. The double overhand doesn't require weight to stay tied.

Let's see. Tie overhand. Weight it. Reppel. Unweight it. Bam! It unties! Yeah. You are doing it wrong.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Nov 9, 2015
ViperScale wrote:
That is why I don't like overhand because it will untie itself unless it is weighted. Until you have something like body weight on it it can untie itself I have seen a well dressed overhand as a backup knot at the bottom of a rappel untie itself.



A single overhand can come undone when it isn't weighted. But that's why you should use a double overhand for the end of your rope to close the system.

As for an overhand on a bight, it will not come untied unless you untie it even if its dressed poorly. (I suppose that it needs to be pulled tight, but that should be intuitive).

The flat overhand (aka EDK) is the rappel bend of choice because it will not get stuck as frequently as other knots. Tests consistently show that it is more than adequately strong enough for rappelling. Is it weaker than a flemish bend or double fisherman's? Yes! Does that actually matter when you're rapping? No!

- but take my advice for what you will. If you feel safer using a double fisherman's for all your rappels then do that if it helps you mentally feel safer.
Jeremy Bauman
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Feb 11, 2009
645 points
Nov 9, 2015
Jeremy Bauman wrote:
A single overhand can come undone when it isn't weighted. But that's why you should use a double overhand for the end of your rope to close the system. As for an overhand on a bight, it will not come untied unless you untie it even if its dressed poorly. (I suppose that it needs to be pulled tight, but that should be intuitive). The flat overhand (aka EDK) is the rappel bend of choice because it will not get stuck as frequently as other knots. Tests consistently show that it is more than adequately strong enough for rappelling. Is it weaker than a flemish bend or double fisherman's? Yes! Does that actually matter when you're rapping? No! - but take my advice for what you will. If you feel safer using a double fisherman's for all your rappels then do that if it helps you mentally feel safer.


Double overhand is ok I don't have a problem with it but the original post I quoted said overhand, not double overhand. I personally like knots that can't be screwed up (yes an overhand is probably the easiest knot to tie but if not weighted can untie itself) and even a screwed up fisher will hold so I prefer knots that can't be screwed up (yes any knot can be completely screwed up but as long as you know the rope has to be going through opposing each other even a screwed up fisher with the loop on the outside will hold good enough for a rappel).

I never tell a beginner to try to tie a knot unless it is near impossible to screw up. Personally I wouldn't let a beginner even do a clove which is a relatively easy knot to tie if you know what you are doing.

I guess the same goes for the evil PAS. Anyone I take with me who doesn't have a ton of experience I give them some kinda "PAS" So all they have to do is clip 2 biners into an anchor and they are good. Chances of screwing that up twice is really low. Who cares how you make the pass as long as all they have to do is taking a locking biner unclip and clip it into something else.
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
201 points
Nov 10, 2015
I will not get into senseless MP arguments ...

I will not get into senseless MP arguments ...

I will not get into senseless MP arguments ...

I will not get into senseless MP arguments ...

Oh what the hell .... Its gonna rain tmr anywayz


Rock Climbing Photo: Amga spi book .... Holy bible for settling intrawe...
Amga spi book .... Holy bible for settling intraweb flame wars


;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
25 points
Nov 10, 2015

;)
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
496 points
Nov 10, 2015
figure 8 follow through
figure 8 on a bight
double fishermans
clove hitch
euro death knot
prussik
alpine butterfly
munter hitch
water knot
bowline
Seth Jones
Joined Feb 17, 2015
39 points
Nov 10, 2015
Gregger Man wrote:
;)


You beat me to it!

aikibujin
From Castle Rock, CO
Joined Oct 14, 2014
264 points
Nov 10, 2015
We'd practice most of these one handed with our teeth..it was an 80's thing.. doug rouse
From Denver, CO.
Joined Apr 15, 2008
655 points
Administrator
Nov 10, 2015
doug rouse wrote:
We'd practice most of these one handed with our teeth..it was an 80's thing..

In the cold shower in the dark?
Muscrat
Joined Oct 27, 2011
3,708 points
Nov 10, 2015
palstek, followed thru
clove
prussik/kleimheist
monkey fist (for beating tourons)
Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Joined Sep 13, 2006
370 points


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