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(91) Breakfast Cracks
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Birds of Paradise T,TR 
Blackberry Jam T,TR 
Espresso T,TR 
White Rabbit T,TR 

Espresso 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 173
Submitted By: David Wade on Sep 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Espresso

Description 

Super sweet and easy hand crack, with ample crimps and smears to help things along. Rock is a little polished, but takes gear well. The crux is definitely the last two moves, and the anchor building options are limited. There is a stout chain around a tree used as a TR anchor, so check it out as you rap down.

Location 

Easiest of the Breakfast Crack climbs to find: look for the giant chain. Rap down from above.

Protection 

Gear to about small hand size. Good gear all the way, two #3 Camalots would have been better than one. No bolted anchor, so if you're leading, look it over closely first!


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Aug 8, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Didn't use any #3's, but did use 2 #2's and 2 #1's. The last move to the ledge is definitely harder than 5.9.
By Carson Baker
From: Portland, OR
Apr 7, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Finishing crux move felt pretty ridic until I found the fist jam that had filled in with dirt. Grade of 5.9 feels fair to me. Most of the climb is 5.7/5.8 and takes gear readily. Nothing bigger than #2 BD or smaller than half inch needed.
By das1405
From: Portland
Sep 8, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I finally made it up this climb after a few failed attempts! really fun and easy access make this a great climb. I know Carson (above comment) and was there the first time he climbed it. Everything he climbs is "not that hard" according to him, so while i am envious I also disagree that the finishing move is a .9 - definitely felt like a .10b with the rest of the climb being a solid .9 He is right that there is a pretty sweet fist jam at the crux that is clutch. thanks for cleaning that out Carson:).

now on to Blackberry Jam...

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