REI Community
The Wasteland
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Automatic Leg Spreader S 
Beast with Two Backs, The S 
Beast, The S 
Believe It S 
Capuccino S 
Community Service S 
Espresso S 
Guilt Parade S 
Gun Shy S 
Java Creek S 
Lady Luck S 
Never Believe S 
Popular Demand S 
Ruckus S 
Slacker S 
Slacker Direct S 
Thieves S 
Vision Thing S 


YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: A. Nelson, R. Wright
Page Views: 3,676
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 10, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Clip pre-crux.


Originally touted as "steeper, longer and harder than The Beast," this route is merely longer. Nevertheless, it's a fun climb up a funky pillar-type feature, and has become pretty popular in recent years.

This is the second route from the right in the Wasteland, and is one route right of Gunshy (more or less the last route on the blue/grey sector of the wall). It has gold-shut bolts on it, and climbs over a small roof to start, then up a groove onto a pillar, and through a second roof to anchors.

Pull over the opening roof on square holds, then amble your way up the groove on cool features. As the angle steepens, the holds get smaller, until you must overcome the roof moves on bizarre pinches.

A second pitch climbs the friable corner above the anchors at 5.11, but is not recommended on busy days due to rockfall potential.


10-12 quickdraws

Photos of Espresso Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Liesel knee-barring.
Liesel knee-barring.
Rock Climbing Photo: "Resting"  photo by Jay Knower.
"Resting" photo by Jay Knower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Halley spots her foothold while attempting Espress...
Halley spots her foothold while attempting Espress...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big move left.
Big move left.

Comments on Espresso Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kayte Knower
Feb 19, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I know it's not the coolest route at the park, but it's one of the best routes I've ever done. That's probably because it took a behemoth effort to redpoint it, and routes that push you that hard are always memorable. But I have to think that the moves on this route would be cool even if it wasn't at your limit. It has a lot of distinct Rifle characteristics -- like wide weird pinches, a knee bar that rests your fingers but tires your core, and all kinds of chalked holds that are only useful in the perfect sequence. The bottom boulder problem is hard (stick clip yes). The middle of the route is puzzling and thought provoking. The moves to get past the crux bulge at the top are fantastic and throwy, and you're pretty pumped when you get there, at least I was, and I had a knee pad on each leg, not ashamed to admit it either. At the crux, the holds I used were well to the right of the bolt line. Go ahead and skip the crux bolt if you can count on a soft catch.
By dra-gon
Aug 25, 2014

This route is way more fun without kneebar trickery.
By tim naylor
Sep 28, 2015

Good to see a few .12ds up there, as we thought it was pretty hard for .12c (my partner flashed Chud and almost flashed Pumparama), but we don't have a lot of Rifle experience. Didn't send but a great route, probably pretty polished now though. It's been about ten years.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 11, 2017

All bolts replaced with glue-in bolts, hardware courtesy of the ASCA and Rifle Climbers Coalition. If you like good bolts, pitch those organizations some money when you have a chance.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About