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Espresso Crack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Leary (TR), Vern Clevenger (lead)
Page Views: 6,722
Submitted By: Jon duSaint on Dec 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Vic Lawson on Espresso Crack. Photo by Kevin Cald...


Amazing steep thin crack.


Gear to 2", with an emphasis on .75" and below

Photos of Espresso Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Livingston makes quick work of the crux sect...
Aaron Livingston makes quick work of the crux sect...
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsighting the Espresso Crack.
 with Ryan Bracci
Onsighting the Espresso Crack. with Ryan Bracci
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Tyler Meester
Photo by Tyler Meester
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean leading Espresso Crack.
Sean leading Espresso Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: nice
Rock Climbing Photo: Frontier - Left Side
BETA PHOTO: Frontier - Left Side

Comments on Espresso Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 19, 2013
By Alex Shainman
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

This is a great, short pitch of finger locks...Its way SHARP!! Tape your fingers because its sharpness may be the deciding factor to send or not. Probably not quite 5.12 as compared to other routes in the nearby areas (11c/d)...Not as hard as Heart Of Stone (another Clevenger route)...Better rack beta would be a 3.5 Friend in the starting flake. A good, sideways medium stopper once standing in the crack. Then, doubles of Yellow and Red Aliens to a 1.5 Friend and then another medium nut or two. Because of rope drag from the anchor its not a good TR. Walk off way to the back and around.
By Victor Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Awesome route! Must do! Probably about .11d. There will be extention webbing/quicklinks on top by mid June sometime to facillitate TR soloing, toproping, and lowering. [please do not steal the equipment!]
By Blitzo
Jul 11, 2008

Great description! Brief and to the point! What more is needed?
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 11, 2008

Blitzo asks, "Brief and to the point! What more is needed?"

Man, that's RICH!
By Russ Walling
Jul 11, 2008

WOW! What a great looking climb!!!!!!!!

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 11, 2008

I want to do it too! Can I come, can I, can I?
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 11, 2008

We saw this crack from the road and hiked up and hopped on it without a guide book. My friend led it first and cruised it. I asked how hard it was and he said he wasn't sure, but thought about 5.10+, so I pulled the rope to lead it. At about the third hang I suspected I'd been sandbagged. I'd say this thing is somewhat harder than 10+ and somewhat easier than 12-. (btw he still maintains that it's 5.10+)

Oh yea, to find it scramble up some ledges to the left just after the approach trail passes an enormous boulder. It starts on a big ledge half-way up the cliff, a little left of an obvious wide-ish crack (Classic Crack).
By Victor Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 17, 2010
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

new bolts with mussy hooks put in by me to better facilitate rope management. They are located after all of the notable climbing, but low enough so your rope does not drag like crazy over the slab. You can still reach them from the top, just wear your harness and be ready to clip in! All stainless steel too!
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
May 25, 2011

Holy granite splitter batman! I mean, really, this is one cool crack! And the gear is bombproof!

Gear spray following so don't read on if you want to onsight:

You could also use a #2 or #3 camalot to protect the initial flake along with a #1 on a runner if you really wanted to then a med/lg nut in the main crack before you start pulling down. The entire main crack goes on .5 camalot/red alien/grey alien. you can also toss in a yellow alien up high and a .75 at the end if you want.

I'd say 11c is about right. The splitter is kinda short and there are .75 sized foot pods but you are fully hanging on ring and finger locks. Soooooooo good! Anyone considering should jump on this thing.
By Neil Rankin
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A classic line.
By Nick Barczak
Jul 1, 2013

This reminds me of 'Jaws' at Mt. Woodson. E.C. is a bit longer, but not much harder.

I haven't climbed too many finger cracks like this for comparison, but I'd stick with 5.11b. The locks are insanely secure.
By SirTobyThe3rd
Dec 19, 2013

This fingercrack is fierce. Sharp but has good locks. The business is not very long, but placing pro on the hard part is not easy. 11c seems like a fair rating. Not harder than Butterballs (not as long as sustained but sharper), and definitely not harder than Pinky Paralysis in Yosemite. I think PP is an 11d and these two 11c, with Rostrum fingercrack an 11b. But since fingercracks depend on person’s finger size this rant is useless. GREAT CLIMB, WORTH REPEATING!

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