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Espero Primavera

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
berberechin fibrao S 
Camparos Toca el Dos S 
Espero Primavera S 
Ferralladura S 
Mandragora S 
Marieta de L'ull Viu S 
Papagora S 
penitenciagite S 
Remena Nena S 
Se Miapaga La Baldufa S 
Tan San Fot S 
Volta I Volta S 
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Espero Primavera Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,200'
Location: 41.2641, 0.93931 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,737
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Topo with some key routes marked.


One of Siurana's most popular crags, Espero Primavera is known for its ultra long & technical face climbs and all day sun. Most of the routes here are vertical to slightly slabby, with a couple of steep roofs sprinkled in here and there. This cliff hosts several of Siurana's most acclaimed routes, particularly the epic 35 meter-long orange streak "Mandragora" (5.12c). However, the main attraction is really the high concentration of moderate routes. Few crags at Siurana have so many routes under 5.12, especially not so many as long & engaging as the climbs found here. If its not occupied, a great place to start is the 35m slab of "Espero Primavera" (5.10-) which can be done in two pitches if you don't have a 70m rope, or just for the "fun" of it. There are a total of ~25 routes at this crag, ranging in grade from 5+ (5.9/10a) to 8b (5.13d).

The crag is not actually sunny all day, but it will seem like that if you're a late riser. The crag does get shade in the early morning, until around 11am. After that, virtually every route bakes in the sun all day. If you have your eyes set on one of the classic hard lines, get up early or come on a cloudy day. Another decent shade option is to head for the four quality 5.11s at the far left end of the wall. These routes have a nice grove of trees at the base that provide relief at least for the belayer.

Getting There 

Espero Primavera is the first of the¨Valley Crags¨ on the NW side of the road. From the village of Siurana, drive the road back towards Montsant to a point 3.2 Km form the upper parking lot. There is a small pullout on the NW side of the road. Park here. The Espero Primavera cliff is the obvious cliff pm the NW side of the road. This lot fills up on weekends, so you may need to park along the road. From the parking lot, hike back up the hill towards Siurana for about 100 feet, to an inobvious trail down a steep embankment on the left. Follow the trail down to the bottom of a drainage, then steeply up the other side. The trail wanders a short distance before reaching the crag.

Climbing Season

For the Siurana area.

Weather station 14.4 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Espero Primavera

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Espero Primavera:
Espero Primavera   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 115'   
Remena Nena   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   
Mandragora   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Espero Primavera

Featured Route For Espero Primavera
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the classic steep slab of "Remena Ne...

Remena Nena 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Europe : Spain : ... : Espero Primavera
One of the classic technical slab climbs of Siurana, Remena Nena is a cerebral outing on excellent multi-colored stone. The darker rock here bakes in the sun, so come on a cloudy day or bring loads of chalk. The line weaves radically, so keep an open mind when route-finding. The crux involves a long reach which may make this feel more difficult for shorties. Show the Euro fun boys what´s what by cruising the initial left-facing corner with bomber fingerlocks. Mount the slab, then head prett...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Espero Primavera Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Espero is on the right.
Espero is on the right.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers enjoying a pair of good moderates at the ...
Climbers enjoying a pair of good moderates at the ...

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