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Hoodgie Wall
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Ankles Away S 
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Holy Shiite, Muslim! T 
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Original Route T 

Escuche Vaca Heard 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X [details]
FA: unknown, or R. Behrens 1-30-2009 solo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 439
Submitted By: munge on Feb 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Start immedialetly left of Leonosphere by laybacking to the left a short flake. This opening move is the physical crux. Trend slightly left and up to the left side of the horizontal crack that can take a cam. From there up and left slightly and follow the blunted arete to the top.


Hoodgie Wall. Descend anchors on Leonosphere.


Pro to 3" - could use bolts above as it is a nice line. Not sure if it's been solo'd by the east side folks already, but if not, might be a nice addition. No objection from me. Squeezy at the bottom. Better to start in the left crack maybe with more gear options or make that a separate line altogether?

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By Bruce Bindner
Feb 4, 2009

I remember looking at this line, thinking "why hasn't someone put something up there?

Now they have.


Surprised you didn't bolt it. Maybe I will, depending on what we hear about it.

By munge
Feb 13, 2009

Wanted to get some input first and then got sick that weekend too. :( Given how old of an area Ahills are, it's possible it's been sent before just no one bothered to report it. There are more possibilities in that area too. The crack left of the where I started Escuche would really be the direct line, or could have a finish slightly left of where I finished.
By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Oct 25, 2014

this line looks pretty good. looks like ok gear at the beginning crack and a nice horn up above about 20ft and maybe small horns after that up the arête.
By munge
Jan 19, 2015

worth adding some lead bolts?
By kenr
Jan 17, 2016

See routes photo.

That initial sequence on the left-trending flake is not only strenuous but a bit awkward. Much harder than the rest of the (more fun) climbing above.

We set up a Top-Rope on this route by using the two-bolt anchor for Leonosphere with a directional sling around a small horn along the ridge crest about twelve feet east from that anchor - (and also used that anchor with directional setup to Top-Rope three other routes to the left of this one).

A climber on Top-Rope who wants to enjoy the easier fun stuff above, without first struggling through the difficult start, might first climb Leonosphere then get lowered down into this route, but stop the lowering about eight feet above the ground.

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