REI Community
Trashcan Rock - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B-1 T 
B-2 T 
B-3 T 
Baby-Point-Five T 
Bimbo T 
Black Eye T 
Bloodymir T 
Cranny T 
Eschar T 
Eyesore T 
Eyestrain T 
History TR 
Karpkwitz T 
Profundity T 
Simpatico T 
Tiptoe T 
Trough, The T 
Tulip T 
Walkway T 


YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,200
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (86)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Eschar: Entire route is visible here.


Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high. You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.

Eschar starts from the left end of the ledge, and moves up and left. It feels a little stiff for 5.4, but protects well.


Standard rack.

Photos of Eschar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Eschar; stoppers work better than cams he...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Eschar; stoppers work better than cams he...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eschar
Rock Climbing Photo: Neale getting some good gear in after the start
Neale getting some good gear in after the start
Rock Climbing Photo: Neale at the base of his second trad lead
Neale at the base of his second trad lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Eschar.

Comments on Eschar Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2016
By Steve Powell
Apr 2, 2003

as I recall, this crack is flaring at the bottom. it may not be the best crack to lead for the beginning climber.
By Michael D. Thompson
May 2, 2003

Well having recently led this route (4/19/03), I do have to agree that it was a bit stiff for a 5.4; however, I don't know where the idea that it protects well came from. I had a loaded rack and I couldn't get a piece that I could call bomber at/before the crux, that bothered me a bit. I don't know, maybe the fact that it was about 7:00 am and I hadn't had any coffee yet made me feel that way. All said and done, it's a fun route, though I wouldn't recommend it to someone that would be considering it for their first trad lead.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 27, 2003

Sew low
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

Fun beginner solo.
By Linnea Williams
Nov 23, 2006

I just lead this as my first gear lead and had no problem protecting it, except for the first little section after the shelf. At that point you can get a kind of crappy nut in some features to the left of the crack that gives some psychological protection, if nothing else.
By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

I think this is a tough climb to introduce people to climbing on - so its probably harder than a 5.4 but then most things on trashcan are harder than their rating.

Decent beginner lead although you cant necessarily sew it up, and there is a crux rattely right hand jam with poor feet about 2/3 up before getting onto easier face that can probably stress out a beginning leader.
By Gary Schenk
Mar 3, 2008

Kind of awkward transitioning into the crack. One of the better 4s in the park.
By Joe M
From: Beckley, wv
Jan 11, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I found it difficult to get a good piece in until I got to the horizontal crack. Otherwise an ok clmb. Great fist jams up high!
By attila
Feb 17, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

If you can manage the first moves to get onto the low shelf, you'll be fine. The route takes large cams fine (save some for the anchor!).
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Decent climb, and no problems protecting it. Standard rack of stoppers. Could be a bit stiff for a 4; maybe a 5.
By UpRope
Nov 11, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I agree.The jams and foot placements in that right hand crack up top seemed harder than 5.4
By Rodger Raubach
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I wanted to do this route again last week, but it seems to be very popular and was occupied most of the weekend. It is a very pleasant , easy lead.
By Canon
Nov 8, 2011

Left leaning and rattly right hand jam at the crux. Used a #4 Friend around there. Otherwise mediocre climb.
By Patrick Sanan
From: Lugano, Switzerland
Dec 9, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I had a lot of fun on this. I would say it is indeed in the 5.4 - 5.5 range but that rating assumes you can do fist jams - a great place to practice those! Protection wasn't completely trivial but I mostly found it when I needed it.
By BrettAtBond
Oct 10, 2015

least secure of the <5.7 cracks on this face due to flaring crack. the other cracks are more enjoyable (comfortable) solos IMO.
By Royce Robertson
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 18, 2016

Not a great first lead if my opinion is worth anything. Flaring crack feels really uncomfortable for hand jams (lacking technique I know - as most noobs are), and almost big enough for arms. Just not very secure feeling for beginner lead. Also, the opening move to get up to the ledge is unprotected and awkward.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About