REI Community
Squirrel Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Escape to Queen Mountain T 
No Nuts Needed S 
One Nut Needed T 
Searching for Nuts S 
Unsorted Routes:

Escape to Queen Mountain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Daniels & Tony Sartin
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Apr 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Escape to Queen Mountain, 5.10a


This fantastic line is actually located on a long buttress of rock about 50 yards to the east of Squirrel Rock/Upper Walt's Rock. The route more-or-less follows the blunt southern arête of the formation.

This long and varied pitch starts with a finger crack followed by a short face crux past a bolt. A right-facing corner is then gained, eventually stepping out right onto airy and exposed face past 3 more bolts on the final headwall. There is some loose stuff on the upper half, probably due to lack of traffic. Adequately protected and a worthy tick. Easily 3/4 stars.


On a separate buttress of rock to the east of Squirrel Rock and Upper Walt's. Rappel from the north side of the formation from bolts with a single rope.


4 bolts, gear from fingers to 2". A single set of cams should suffice. Gear anchor, with bolted rappel station on the north side of the rock.

Photos of Escape to Queen Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Q.M. Q.M.
Rock Climbing Photo: Escape to Queen Mountain
Escape to Queen Mountain

Comments on Escape to Queen Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Nice exposed climbing on steep featured rock - long pitch! More or less well protected, as long as you don't break a hold on the upper part. 10a seems like a bit of a stretch, too.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About