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Escape to Queen Mountain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Daniels & Tony Sartin
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Apr 5, 2012

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Escape to Queen Mountain, 5.10a

Description 

This fantastic line is actually located on a long buttress of rock about 50 yards to the east of Squirrel Rock/Upper Walt's Rock. The route more-or-less follows the blunt southern arête of the formation.

This long and varied pitch starts with a finger crack followed by a short face crux past a bolt. A right-facing corner is then gained, eventually stepping out right onto airy and exposed face past 3 more bolts on the final headwall. There is some loose stuff on the upper half, probably due to lack of traffic. Adequately protected and a worthy tick. Easily 3/4 stars.

Location 

On a separate buttress of rock to the east of Squirrel Rock and Upper Walt's. Rappel from the north side of the formation from bolts with a single rope.

Protection 

4 bolts, gear from fingers to 2". A single set of cams should suffice. Gear anchor, with bolted rappel station on the north side of the rock.


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Rock Climbing Photo: E.to Q.M.
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Escape to Queen Mountain

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By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Nice exposed climbing on steep featured rock - long pitch! More or less well protected, as long as you don't break a hold on the upper part. 10a seems like a bit of a stretch, too.

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