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Escape Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joe Slansky and David Mealey
New Route: Yes
Season: spring or fall
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: David Mealey on Jan 20, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Escape route

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

pitch one climbs through a bit of loose rock to the base of an off width.
pitch two climbs the 5 inch crack for 50' then follows a low angle ramp into the back of a chimney
pitch three if you're skinny enough squeeze the constriction and chimney climb until you are forced out. climb past a ledge and around the corner to a cam belay.the pitch could be more difficult if you can't squeeze through.
Pitch four and five climb straight up the chimney any way you can.There are a number of wedged boulders to navigate around that have plenty of spots for good pro.

Location 

The route is on the north side of the River Road and requires a boat to access. If you stop at mile marker 5 there is a large pull out on the right. Park there and look across and slightly up river.The route is the largest and most obvious dihedral

Protection 

Bring a double set from #.5 to #6 friend, a set of stoppers, and many long runners
There are no bolts on this route. For the descent the FA Wrapped from a large bush at the top of the chimney to a large boulder at the top of the first squeeze then to the ground. This route is actually in Arches so drilling is not allowed.


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