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Pinky Pillar (backside)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Escape From The Gumbies T 
Unknown (Escape Left) T,TR 
Unknown (Escape Right) T,TR 

Escape From The Gumbies 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Wade Parker, Brade Hoover
Season: Any
Page Views: 318
Submitted By: Wade Parker on Apr 29, 2012

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Description 

Original route starts low, just below a 1.5 to 2" crack underneath a small roof. Put pro in here with a very short or no runner and move straight up to the fixed knifeblade. Stay low while clipping the knifeblade to help with groundfall potential. Move straight up into cruxy moves and then over left to the bolt. A few neat, juggy moves lead to a chain anchor from there. An easier variation follows the left arete.

Location 

In the middle of the face on the backside of Pinky Pillar

Protection 


Trad gear, one fixed pin, one bolt and a bolted anchor with chains.


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By Wade Parker
From: Clover SC
Aug 22, 2012

FA - Wade Parker and Brade Hoover. There are several variations to do the route so to avoid controversy we rated it 5.8 when we put it up.
By chris mcguigan
From: belmont, nc
Aug 10, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

did it today for the first time, need to lead it. I thought it was a surprisingly good climb even though its short. Started middle part of the wall moved up and right then back left to fixed pin. Grab the jugs on the left arete. felt like 5.8
Good movement throughout.