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Escape From Reality 

Escape From Reality 

Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Todd Bradlee
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Apr 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Matt making the crux lunge.

Description 

This is the boulder problem hidden away in a cave just above the main parking lot. Start sitting way back in the cave and crimp your way to the large underclings 3/4 of the way out. Match the last undercling and use a tiny crimp intermediate to throw big for the lip of the cave, then keep tight and work up to the obvious finishing 'spike.' Unfortunately several holds have broken over the past few years and some of the moves (particularly at the start) aren't as nice as they used to be. Still a great endurance boulder problem, though - something like 18 moves long and horizontal the whole way.

Location 

From the kiosk at the main parking lot, look up and left. You'll see a small looking cave. Now take the trail to your left that leads up towards the Holderness Corner. About 3/4's of the way up, you'll see a faint trail that trends down and right. This trail will get you to the cave & to the boulder problem.

Protection 

Several pads.


Photos of Escape From Reality Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Giossi - getting into the good undercling bef...
Matt Giossi - getting into the good undercling bef...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Giossi - sticking the crux throw
Matt Giossi - sticking the crux throw
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Giossi - about halfway through
Matt Giossi - about halfway through

Comments on Escape From Reality Add Comment
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By ward smith
Jun 24, 2009

Please approach this problem from the trail to the Parking Lot Wall. There are rare plants between the trail to the Holderness Corner and the boulder (the FS put up a fence at the trail edge in this area).
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jan 27, 2011

I went up to look at this problem the other day, and it appeared to me that there were two more lines to the left. Does anyone know anything about these two lines?

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