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Escape from Alcatraz 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Jack Mileski, Jeff Gruenberg, ~1987
Page Views: 2,986
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 20, 2001

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Bob Horan on Escape from Alcatraz.

CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>


An interesting line that escapes from the pedestal jutting out of the river in the middle of River Wall. Reach the pedestal by rock hopping across the river (impossible in spring/summer), access the right side of River Wall and boulder to the pedestal (also tricky in spring) or rappel from the top. Note: place draws on one side of rope while rappeling so the rope doesn't fall into the drink. Belay off the pedestal anchor bolt and either place protection or run it out to the first bolt. After the first bolt, insecure climbing reaches a layback and undercling flake. Tricky route finding above leads to 15 foot easy run-out terrain to the top - a protectable crack is slightly right of the last bolt. A solid, and fun thinking man's route.


One bolt anchor on pedastal. Small nut or 0.5 tricam protects mantel that reaches 1st bolt. Five bolts to two bolt anchor atop. Somewhat runnout, but clean falls. Long slings (4+ feet) suggestable for setting up a toprope off the bolts which are back from the top of the cliff.

Photos of Escape from Alcatraz Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: It was mid 40s and Yager backflopped into the rive...
It was mid 40s and Yager backflopped into the rive...

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By Umph!
Oct 13, 2005
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This is a great sport climb that is in fact tricky after the underclings. . . I traversed a bit right toward the crack and placed a small alien to keep from the 10+ RO. The second time I just ran it out. It is a thought-provoking line and feels a bit desperate for a move or two - though a fall wouldn't hurt ya too much I s'pose. 11a.
By Hank Caylor
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 16, 2009

My favorite mid-Summer climbing area. The spray from the waterfall, the crystal clear water, world class trail-running, fly fishing and insane undeveloped bouldering all with an icy cold dip at the end of the day. This whole place is a blast!
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 27, 2009

Well Cale lead first using a nice, yellow ultralite to protect the Mantle. Then cog to the runout on the third bolt and didn't feel right. I lead to the R.O. and placed a nice fitting #1 C-4, and continued to the third and forth bolts, now small cams and possible another #1 would help protect the rest of the route, or one could venture on out on Livewire.
By Steve McCorkel
Oct 17, 2015

The flake like feature at the start flexes noticeably. I doubt very much it would hold a cam if tested.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 13, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is an engaging mixed route with great sequences, technical footwork, and decent pro where you need it. The bolting is rather peculiar, but with supplemental gear, this route can be well-protected. I placed a #3 Camalot after the first bolt which helped reduce the run-out between the bolts, but folks stronger than I would surely be all right here. Above the 3rd bolt, there are a few possibilities for sequences - I'll let you decipher these. All in all, a good route at a great crag.
By mike schlauch
Nov 2, 2016

FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Jack Mileski, Jeff Gruenberg, 1987-ish. All from NJ. That should explain a lot.

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