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Es OK 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Michael Dom, John Sloan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 17
Submitted By: Michael Dom on Apr 9, 2017

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Description 

Pitch 1

Follow the greasy crack break right at the roof and locate the detached pillars in the crack and then traverse right to another. Head upwards via a sweet lieback mantel move with good gear to the belay ledge where you build a gear anchor.

Pitch 2

Step right and traverse around the corner to a dirt mound. Ascend the wild flake that is heady and exposed. A #6 would be excellent for protecting this section. As you move up the flake you will find yourself standing on a rock pillar. Step right into the dirt for feet and begin liebacking and chimneying up the gulley. Once you get to the wet corner place a #4 and break left onto the face. You will be swinging on enormous jugs out left going to the head wall. Choose your holds carefully and sling horns until you break over the steep but heady terrain.

Location 

Right of caec

Protection 

Double rack from purple metolius to #2. A single #3,#4,#6 camalot.


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By John Sloan
From: Birmingham, AL
Apr 19, 2017

this thing is amazing and should be done instead of CAEC

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