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Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mowed out mama T 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Erotica 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed 1991
Page Views: 1,422
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 15, 2010

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This excellent, over-looked line climbs just as good as it looks, and lacks the tiresome slab cruxes of many Endless Wall 5.12s.

Scramble up the start of Doce Doe to a reach a big ledge and an airy traverse left to the high first bolt. Follow incut jugs up the orange wall to a good stance below a pair of vertical edges. Balance your way over this section to more good holds and easy slabbin to the roof. Get Gunky, crank over the thrilling ceiling, and try to hang on to the anchor.

Location 

The next bolted line right of Aesthetica, climbing a beautiful orange & blue speckled face to a looming roof.

Protection 

6 bolts to 2 BA. Optional ~1" gear for ramp start.


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