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West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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Ernest Extended Way 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Clint Locks
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Clint Locks on Oct 16, 2004

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  • Description 

    This is a nice way to extend Ernest Hemmingway. Check out that description (and the pic below) for approach info.

    At a broad, grassy section of the ramp (just up from the 'model Christmas tree', locate a broken, right-facing dihedral. Climb that up through a roof, angle up and left to meet up with Ernest Stemmingway just below the roof on that climb.

    Above the roof, the pro is sparse, and the bolt that is at the crux inspires about as much confidence as fishing for marlin with dental floss or bullfighting with a blindfold on. Don't fall there.

    At press time (10/04) there was a sling and rap ring on a tree on the east slab that will *just* get you back to the start of the climb with a 60m rope.

    Protection 

    Once the route meets up with Ernest Stemmingway, there is one bolt (Eds. Steve Levin replaced the bolt May, 2006) above the roof.


    Comments on Ernest Extended Way Add Comment
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    By Byron Murray
    Apr 12, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

    Steve Levin replaced the bolt May, 2006.

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