|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Matt Twyman, Erin Murdock|
|Submitted By:||kinz on Feb 21, 2014|
|Comments on Erin's Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Tyler Garrett
From: Dallas, TX
Mar 18, 2014
If you climb this route straight up, it is easily the hardest 5.9 on the greenbelt. Stick clip the first clip and I wouldn't say I felt overly committed to get clips in. Over all it's worth a visit and tear drop the route to the left for a tough run.
They call it a 5.10, hopefully you can figure out better beta. I had to do this super high heel hook (I'm 6'1 so it's high), lock off on this terrible pinch/sidepull, both feet barn doored to stay on then I had to put my feet on these microfeet holds and throw to the ledge... it took me 5 trys to figure out how to get past the first clip, so yes stick clip would help if you're looking to sport it. Pretty insane bouldery start for a 5.10b rating as the guide book says. Before the feet came off here's the shot.
By Matt Seigel
From: Austin, TX
Feb 21, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
It looks like the beta picture by Tyler is actually for a 5.10b to the left of the 5.9+. The 5.9+ starts on some ledges from what I understand has some pretty tricky moves to it. I'd call it a 5.10b myself but I'm not the best climber. Right after the 5.9+ the wall in unmaintained.
Climbed both routes tonight and there is some over growth.