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Eric Varney Direct 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: probabbly Eric Varney
Page Views: 3,920
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

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Misha Z. sticking the first move.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a great problem! Vertical pocket pulling!

Start with your right hand in an infamous, sloping dish and left in the heel hook jug for the Center Left route. Cross over with the left to a small, not too good, three finger edge. Your right hand goes directly above it to a shallow, two finger pocket, left hand out to a good edge, then up. Tweaky.


#11 hex.

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By Owen Silver
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 10, 2003

This is a really hard, but great problem. If you are taller than 5'11", it's possible to reach the right hand crimp without stepping your right foot up to the tiny marked hold, and that may make a difference for some.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 27, 2003

For full value start on the good incut flake just below the big jug on the left. A longish move to the soap dish joins the regular problem. For fuller value, there is a contrived sit start just to the right of the flake and jug(Off for hands and feet). Start on two small crimps and get a pretty small sidepull with the right hand.Pull past a couple of thin crimps to the three finger edge and finish. After comparison with problems such as Swiss Crisp Mix at Hueco, it may be worth V10. Strictly for connoisseurs of the ridiculous.
By Jordan Wood
Jan 22, 2006

I used the small crimp just below the pocket. Is it supposed to be "off"?
By GeoffElson Elson
Jan 9, 2009

I second that question, it seems hard with the crimp but impossible with the slick dish.
By GeoffElson Elson
Feb 21, 2009

Edit to previous, not impossible with the dish. The foot beta is way right. Also the flagstaffblogspot guide says either crimp or dish and I agree they seem about the same.
By jjc
From: denver
Jul 24, 2009

I've done this problem multiple times. However, I was there last week and it seems that a pebble within the starting right hand dish has come out, making the start a bit easier. The tip of my middle finger gains some purchase on the new micro crater. Still a great problem! As far as the crimp being off, I think its harder to use the crimp that is just below the dish. Makes it harder to pivot off the right arm.
By R Sather
Jan 8, 2016
rating: V5 6C

Did Eric Varney Direct from the stand start (right hand in "soap dish" hold) and from a low SDS starting from the flake moving left to the "jug pod" and right hand into EVD's "soap dish" hold. I mistook the lower SDS for Moffat Direct, but upon reading the beta blog, the left "jug pod" is off for both hands and feet if attempting MD.

The lower SDS start from the flake seems like a more logical and straightforward line for EVD and doesn't really change the difficulty. In my opinion, the lower start makes a more appealing boulder problem. Not sure what others think, but hopefully this adds some clarification for others attempting EVD and other eliminate problems on the Red Wall.

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