Eric Horst: Training for Climbing
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I heard a new book was in the works, but I wasn't aware that it is now available. Has anyone read it and have any input? I have the old version, which is a great introduction to linear periodization, but isn't nearly as beginner friendly as the Rock Prodigy method -- which tells you what to do and when to do it. Now that I've been following the latter method for a few years, I'm always trying to digest as much as possible from other sources to tweak a program that is best suited for me. Any insight on the new book? |
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Don't know about a new edition, but I felt I got plenty from the 2008 version. |
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I think it all comes down to what works for you. Both books say that repeatedly. Personally I think the training for climbing books give better suggestions on non-climbing strength training while I like the micro/macrocycle routine outlined in the Anderson book. I also like the RPTC although I currently SUCK at the pinch grips on that sucker. |
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Thanks, I agree with what is said above. I guess the better question is this: Does the 2016 version differ significantly from the 2008 version? |
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I was inspired to buy the new Horst book after hearing him on the Power Company podcast. |
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Great review Mark, much appreciated. Keep em coming! |
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evan h wrote:Great review Mark, much appreciated. Keep me coming.This is unintentionally hilarious! |
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Hahah! Damn auto correct! |
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Evan I have both the 2016 and 2008 version of Horst's "Training for Climbing." I can provide a quick and dirty overview of my thoughts. |
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Great review Wilburn! |
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he's also posting a few training videos on EPIC TV outlining beginner training |
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Does he still recommend his HIT strip training or has he abandon it altogether? |
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I have his "how to climb 5.12" book. Is Training for Climbing significantly different, or can I wait until I can actually climb 5.12 and use that one to get to 5.13? :p |
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@divnamite - HIT strip training is still a significant part of finger strength protocol. |
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Wilburn wrote:There are new exercises that were not present in the 2008 version and some exercises have been removed altogether (Heavy Finger Rolls for example).Interesting that heavy finger rolls have been removed, as they seem to be one of the more divisive movements out there. Any mention as to why he removed them? I don't remember it coming up on the Power Company podcast. |
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I was also disappointed that the exercise was removed. There was no mention of the removal. Given that the exercise was good enough for Todd Skinner, I think it's good enough for me. |
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Wilburn wrote:I was also disappointed that the exercise was removed. There was no mention of the removal. Given that the exercise was good enough for Todd Skinner, I think it's good enough for me.I've never tried them. While most climbing exercises, like hangboarding or pull up variations, are generally treated as valid by all writers and trainers, finger rolls aren't. The Anderson brothers specifically do not recommend them, and include a sidebar on their reasoning. Just for that reason, I'd really like to know why Hörst removed them. Anyone feel like emailing him? |
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Sorry to interject in your discussion, but just in case anyone of you would like to purchase a practically brand new set of HIT strips, feel free to PM me. I have been meaning to post them in the For Sale section, but perhaps this forum will actually find them a home (I am certainly willing to sell them at a very fair price). |
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Wilburn wrote:Not a fan of the book advocating static stretchingWhy is that? The book is pretty specific about not overdoing the finger flexor, which may impact short term performance. The rest don't really matter (IMO, it's better to gain a fraction more ROM than lose some strength temporarily). |
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Tony I haven't read the Anderson Brothers book and I'm interested to know their take on this exercise. Is it out of concern for the lower back? |
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Tony Monbetsu wrote: I've never tried them. While most climbing exercises, like hangboarding or pull up variations, are generally treated as valid by all writers and trainers, finger rolls aren't. The Anderson brothers specifically do not recommend them, and include a sidebar on their reasoning. Just for that reason, I'd really like to know why Hörst removed them. Anyone feel like emailing him?I think the big change from when Todd talked about finger curls is the advent of climbing gyms. When he said that gyms were very few and far between. At that time the finger curl was a good move for those who couldn't climb for very long stretches of time (many of us as to outdoor climbing) - it can add significant general hand strength over sitting on the couch :) |