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Eric Couldn't Come 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: some idiots (or maybe just Simon & me)
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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P3, looking back along traverse off, mostly very e...

Description 

"To go where no idiot has gone before."

Well, hell, climbers are not the sharpest tools in the shed, but they do have fun. It's amazing how much rock is out there and just begging to be climbed. Yeah, this may have been climbed before, but the rock is not in Hubbel's guide, Gillett's isn't out yet, and it isn't in the database, so here goes. This name/description refers to the 2nd of 3 pitches of the line. Please don't get mad if this is your FA.

This route is located just upstream & across the river from Scout Rock & just downstream Guardian Rock (listed in Hubbel's guide). It is on a buttress just above the S. St. Vrain. It follows a natural line at a moderate grade. It does face NW, so, sunny is not a typical adjective for the route. Think a bit licheny. Bring tape.

Find a RFD after crossing the river and bushwhacking to the R side of the rock. P1. Ascend this reasonable corner for about 60 feet to a good ledge & belay, 5.8. (This has been climbed before & may be called "Auld Lang Syne.")

This is the described pitch: P2. Continue up a groove to the R of the big RFD (previously climbed) with pinches to start. It becomes a chimney about 40 ft up. Crux of this pitch involves a bit of squeezing & not leaving gear racked behind you in the chimney part. From there, the terrain eases in difficulty trending R with non-sustained face climbing. The end of this pitch may join the finish for the big RFD (previously climbed). Continue to about 190ft up after crossing a separation in the wall. 5.7.

P3. Go up a short lieback with double cracks to an easy but exposed traverse off the R side of the crag for 150 ft or so to the walk off. Aim for a decent-sized tree. This pitch has been climbed previously.

Descend a sloping gully to the R of the climb.

Protection 

Rack to #4 Camalot. Hexes #9, 10, and 11 can be useful. A #4.5 Camalot was a bonus but is not required.


Photos of Eric Couldn't Come Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Line of Eric Couldn't Come.
BETA PHOTO: Line of Eric Couldn't Come.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2, after the fun stuff.
P2, after the fun stuff.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1, approach pitch, Auld Lang Syne.
P1, approach pitch, Auld Lang Syne.

Comments on Eric Couldn't Come Add Comment
Show which comments
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 21, 2005

Dang, Eric, silly how those little adult things, like jobs, get in the way of having a bit o' fun.
By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 16, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pretty fun climb. This was my first multi-pitch trad lead. It would be a lot better if it was cleaned up a little.

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