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Erbanay T 
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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Herb North Jr, Ray Ringle, 1980
Season: fall- spring
Page Views: 443
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jan 16, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Balin Wall (right), where "Erbanay" resi...


From the gully walk out a small ledge to a dead tree (jan 09). Climb up the mixed flake/crack with plentiful gear to just under the roof, then traverse left 12' (past a hole with good big stopper and/or smaller full size camming unit) to a belay either below or above the roof. A variation climbs straight off the end of the flake and over the right end of the roof (also 5.8+). Be warned, if you go up 1/2 way through the traverse (above the pro hole), the moves are balancy and steep and could be harder than 5.8+. so the question then begs, go left to get the pro or simply pull straight up over the less than overhanging bulge. With proper runners, the variation from ground to summit can be done with one rope. We belayed above the roof in a 1-1 1/2" crack. There are a pair of older welded cold shuts at the top.

A short 45' rap off the back (2 bolts, chains) or downclimb can be done.


the first route (right side of 1st wall) down the gully.


Stoppers or all camming units small to 3" Doubles of tcu's suggested.

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By jbak
Jan 19, 2009

Set the Way-Back machine for 1981...
By mrbiscoop
Feb 28, 2011

Led Erbanay in one pitch back in 94/95 after 2 failed attempts (involving whippers which resulted in permanent scars). Really hard for 8+.

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