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b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack Climb T 
After You T 
Back to the future T 
Bird Cage T 
Birdbrain T,TR 
Birdland T 
El Camino T 
El Kabong T,TR 
Elder Cleavage Direct T 
Eraserhead T,TR 
Farewell to Arms T 
Fat and Weak T 
Grease Gun Groove T 
Lonely Challenge T 
Loose Goose T 
Moe T 
Pain Strain T 
Road Warrior T,TR 
Roseland T 
Shitface T,TR 
Silver Bullet T 
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 
To Be Or Not To Be T 
To Have or Have Not T,TR 
Transcontinental Nailway T 
Tulip Mussel Garden T 
Up Yours T 
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 

Eraserhead 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 1983 Russ Raffa and Russ Clune
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: Alex CV on Apr 30, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Good face climbing leads to progressively harder moves on small holds below the roof. Trend right then back left before the roof. Pull the roof on the right (crux). Finish on easier climbing above.

Location 

Start in the same area as Shitface, left or right starts on the face (doesn't change the grade).

Protection 

Bolted Roseland anchor at the top. One piton protects the roof; bring small cams.


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By akline
May 12, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

The protection is adequate with modern gear and the falls are not bad. It's also a good first 5.12 because it is easy to set-up on top-rope first and dial in the moves.