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Equipment Overhang 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA: E. Elaison, D. Raymond, FFA: Jack Roberts, Frank Trummel, 1976
Page Views: 8,884
Submitted By: grk10vq on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (123)
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Eric Gessner takes a whipper on Equipment Overhang...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This route is roughly in the center of the main wall and easily spotted with the roof. Fun crack climbing leads to a good, tough face climbing crux, protected by a bolt. Climbing up and over the roof is much easier than it looks. but once you pull the roof get ready for some standard LCC flared excitement. It's a great route, is well protected, but it is very sustained, and the finish isn't exactly easy. At least half of this route is good, hard 5.10 climbing


Stoppers and cams to 3", two bolts.

Photos of Equipment Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 2) Black and White John and ...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 2) Black and White John and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux... (2002)
The crux... (2002)
Rock Climbing Photo: Great route with a distinct crux
Great route with a distinct crux

Comments on Equipment Overhang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 15, 2016
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

favorite lead on the wall
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 6, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I would disagree with the assertion that this is a great 5.11a break in route. It's a great route, it is well protected, but it is very sustained, and the finish isn't exactly straight-forward. At least half of this route is sutained hard 5.10 climbing. A green Metolius helped me commit to the finishing move.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 18, 2006

I missed whatever pro might have been available after that second bolt definitely whimpering by the time I finally got to the chains. I felt so close to taking that big ride out into space, but I didn't. Great route, I fell once at the crux, so didn't quite get the onsight. It was my first 5.11 trad lead, I thought it was a reasonable break in route, the only .11 climbing was protected well by that bolt, but definitely a lot of .9-.10 climbing on the route too.
By Abandoned User
May 6, 2009

David, I took that ride, and it's a long one. Thanks to whoever placed that bolt. You did a good job. Definitely doesn't let up even after you pull the roof.

Full 5.11 goodness.
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 6, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree, i think it is solid 5-11 in between those two bolts. I did not get a piece in at the top either, but the climbing eases as you get higher.
By Quino Gonzalez
Nov 5, 2009

You can place a micro-nut after the second bolt. This will make the fall a bit shorter, in case things don´t quite work on the exit. In any case, it is a clean fall and should be okay to take it. It does give you peace of mind though since the last moves are so committing.
By jack roberts
May 31, 2010

Just saw this.

Frank Trummel was my partner on the FA. Glad people are still enjoying it.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

you can get in at least 2 micros above the last bolt, and they're solid. i must have climbed up, and down 2-3 times before committing to those last moves!
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jun 17, 2011

One of the best routes of the grade in LCC. Don't bother placing gear above that 2nd bolt. It will only pump you out and make you fall. Great rests throughout.
By johnny utah
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The final bolt's nut is loose and could use a tighening with some glue to prevent it from loosening again. I think it has loosened due to the crossloading force (to the right) of those who fall on toprope or lower off on the climb. The bolt hanger twists counter clockwise when loaded in this situation and then the leader corrects it each time it is lead. The glue that once held it stationary has broken. The result is a potential hazard on a well used route.
By Dean Raynes
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 5, 2013

Great climb, I agree that this is a good climb to get into the grade, its 5.9+ sustained but only a couple moves at 5.11. And dont put a piece above the second bolt just commit, make the move, and stand up on good feet.
By choppinBolts
Sep 17, 2014

I previously left a comment talking smack on the fixed gear on this climb. Below are the reactions and cool historical comments others left. I accept any hard feelings people may have had. Thanks for the interesting facts and perspective on this climb
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 17, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

What exactly does "maybe the bolts were placed traditionally" mean? On lead by hand?? You do realize that when this line went up and was freed (early 70s) the "places for gear along the way" weren't exactly stellar placements for nuts and hexes? The bolt was necessary at the time. It may be somewhat superfluous now but you may want to consider the context in which it was placed and recognize its historical purpose... I guarantee the dudes who placed that hardware understood the mind game of managing danger better than you ever will.
BTW, did you clip the bolt?
By JimG
Sep 17, 2014

Yeah, Jack Roberts was such a pussy back in 1976. Nice guy with an impressive climbing career. Too bad he was killed a couple of years ago ice climbing.
By bsmoot
Sep 18, 2014

Here's a little history back in the '70s about the bolts.

Kim Miller began working on the FFA, mid-'70s. There were NO bolts on the route at the time. He freed it close to the same time Roberts freed it. He also said:

"After this, Mark Ward put a bolt in at the crux first move, left of the crack. He and I had both ripped pieces out from that area so added a bolt. I put a great Lost Arrow pin in at the roof before the final lie back. This was later - way later - replaced with another bolt."
By dnaiscool
Apr 15, 2015

The tech crux is the ten feet around the first bolt, and I pasted a bomber #5 stopper to access that bolt; however, the Red Point/On-Sight crux was -for me- that scary-rounded-pumper-layback-thingy getting to the chains. Just punch it, and keep a sharp eye for the jugs that come to play on the left wall. This route would be a 5-Star Classic.... anywhere!

My rack:
Several #3-10 Stoppers
.5-2 Tricam (sorry, but I just love these..)
Double #2 TCU (the yellow one)
Camalot:.5, .75, 1, 2...and I used two #4 in the wide crack down low.

Work whatever rest you come upon, like the one at the roof once you get some good hand jams in play. I agree that unless you have lots of power to spare, like Drew Bedford does, then a superior tactic would be to forget about setting anything up high, and just move fast once you clip that last bolt, torquing those toes and doing the gorilla thing all the way to the chains.

Don't forget to breathe.
By Frank Anthony Nederhand
From: Salt Lke City, Utah
Jun 15, 2016
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Great route, tougher for short people!!

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