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Equipment Overhang Right 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: FFA: Jack Roberts, Frank Trummel 1976
Page Views: 2,973
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 6, 2006

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Equipment Overhang Right in LCC

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This climbs up the right side of the obvious overhang in the middle of the wall. It stays consistent most of the way. It starts with a wide crack that thins out to some face climbing (crux).

It then works the arete a bit and back into the crack just right of the overhang. The crack above the overhang is a blast, as is the face finish.

The crux is very delicate and is protected with brass, so be careful. However, IMO, it was not runout like the book claims.


Just right of Equipment Overhang Left.


Standard rack, heavy on the small stuff. I used one brass and 2 small aliens, and a WC Zero. Chains at the top.

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By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 9, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This thing is fun! Definitely not R, it protects fine, but thin gear at the crux, like Nathan said. I protected the hardest moves with a 00 C3 (not mine, but now I gotta buy a set I think) and a blue metolius TCU. I thought the crux was moving from the face/corner to the arete, but that whole section was pretty hard.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 2, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You can save money and use two bomber small nuts (~3 stopper) at the crux. Also if the crux gets to easy (never been for me - always exciting!), I've watched people stay in the corner the whole way!
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 15, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

No way does it deserve a seriousness rating. There's gear the whole way. First, there's a whopping threadable flake before the crux. The placements at the crux have gotten better over the years. What used to be RPs at the crux are now small, but bomb-proof stoppers.
By Marq Diamond
Sep 1, 2011

Normally I don't climb R routes in LCC, or anywhere for that matter, but I lead this yesterday and was able to sew it up. Nice alien above the crux, small metolius tcus for the last bit.
By Jesse Kenyon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Agreed on being able to sew it up. Crux protects well with multiple small nuts if you want. Mostly 5.9 Climbing with a few 5.10b moves. Great fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: Equipment Overhang Right lots of pro
Equipment Overhang Right lots of pro
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
Oct 17, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is fantastic.

5.8/5.9 climbing with a short 10b section thrown in there about 3/4 of the way up.

Not PG13 - there is gear all the way.

Rack: Doubles .3-.75 + Singles .1, .2, 1, and 2. Plus a set of nuts.
By Matty Coles
From: Salt Lake City
May 31, 2017

What a good route! Pulling out onto the arete for a bit of exposure at the crux feels great and can be protected with some "OK" small nut placements. The gear is there, but it's not always great.

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