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Epitaph
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Paul Obanheim, Brian Harrington, Chris Bay, 1985 |
Page Views: | 1,749 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Jul 13, 2009 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Epitaph... the true Tombstone Terror of Lover's Leap! This route starts up a crack right above the most prominent tombstone on Tombstone Ledge. Another 5.10c, this one is much different in character than the Terror. The Epitaph was the famous silver mine in Tombstone AZ, that funded the boom that extracted 25 million dollars in a few short years in the 1880s, when the Earp brothers were in town. The Epitaph was also the name of the local paper.
Start up the well protected crack to the base of the first roof and clip the fixed pin. Make the moves over the first roof, and follow the dikes and unlock the sequence over the next two roofs.
After the third lead bolt, you can traverse 30' left on 5.0 climbing and rap off a slung block, or else continue up and top out the route on grungy rock.
A well protected lead that is worth doing when on Tombstone Ledge.
Start up the well protected crack to the base of the first roof and clip the fixed pin. Make the moves over the first roof, and follow the dikes and unlock the sequence over the next two roofs.
After the third lead bolt, you can traverse 30' left on 5.0 climbing and rap off a slung block, or else continue up and top out the route on grungy rock.
A well protected lead that is worth doing when on Tombstone Ledge.
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