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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Epiphany 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Chuck Fitch, Alec Sharp, Richard Carey
Season: morning shade in summer
Page Views: 1,664
Submitted By: adam brink on Jul 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Me scraping out the onsight on Epiphany. Photo by ...

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  • Description 

    While Epiphany Direct already describes the original Epiphany a bit, the routes is good enough that it deserves its own description.

    Start 10 feet downhill and to the left of Arms Bazaar. You will see a bolt about 15 feet off the ground. Don't blow it getting to the bolt. You can place a small cam before the bolt if you wish. Once on the ledge above, clip the anchor with a long sling and set off into the slabby face and cracks above. There is one small nest of gear about 20 feet off the ledge (once again, don't blow it getting there!). 10 or 15 feet above that you will get another nest of really good nuts and cams and then punch it for the finishing thin crack on Arms Bazaar.

    This is an excellent, long pitch with quite a bit of thoughtful climbing and a hard crux.

    Location 

    This is ten feet to the left of Arms Bazaar.

    Protection 

    2 bolts and some very spaced out small gear. Bolted anchor.


    Comments on Epiphany Add Comment
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    By slim
    Administrator
    Sep 20, 2009
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

    This is a really nice route, with good climbing on good rock. Not really R, but not really Fisher-Price either. Split the difference and call it PG-13, with good gear available but involving a bit of work. Consistent climbing in the 10-ish range with a brief crux.
    By Scott Bennett
    Oct 22, 2010
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    Agree that this is a fine pitch, one that I overlooked on my first few visits to this crag (the best crag in Boulder Canyon?)

    I thought the climbing was consistently thought provoking, up to a great rest, and then a full-on crux. Bonus points for finishing on the fun finger crack shared with Arms Bazaar.

    As for pro, I felt adequately protected on all the 5.10 and above sections. Not R, but bring RPs, and don't botch the crux gear.

    -Scott
    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 25, 2017
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

    Epiphany is a prime example of an excellent gear-protected route that would have otherwise been a mediocre sport route if rap bolted to Boulder Canyon standards. The rock quality is excellent, and the gear is just where you need it and nowhere else. The hard moves are well-protected by small gear, and the easy moves require confidence and commitment.

    There are several other quality routes in the canyon that could have been gear routes or trad routes with minimal bolts but were reduced to mediocrity by placing bolts next to good gear placements or by over-bolting in general. This is not one of them, thanks to the FAs.

    If you don't want to bring the whole rack:

    I didn't use anything larger than a purple-blue offset Mastercam, although you could place a blue-yellow offset Mastercam down low. I recommend bringing the smallest offset nut, a couple tiny stoppers, at least a small RP or two, and two purple Mastercams. All of the gear placements are solid.

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