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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
Bell Air T,S 
Bell Buster S 
Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
Front Line T 
Frontier T 
Gates of Eden T 
Grand Inquisitor T 
Headwall T 
Hound Dog S 
Joe Pontiac T 
Little Man in the Boat T 
North Face T 
Pitts, The T 
Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
Saved by the Bell T 
Spoiled Moose, The T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 
Tiers T 
Unknown T 
Unknown Crack T 
Verve S 
West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

Epiphany Direct 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,460
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Sep 5, 2001

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  • Description 

    This is a direct finish to the existing Alec Sharp route, Epiphany (11d s), which climbs the smooth, north-facing plaque of rock just right of the gully to the right of Cosmosis. Clip a bolt and climb past funky groove features to a ledge, clipping the double bolt belay. Continue up the face via a thin seam to a small foot ledge about 15 feet below the anchors for Epiphany and Arms Bazaar. The standard Epiphany continues up and right via another small seam to the belay ledge, the direct steps left onto the face and liebacks past a tips seam and pockets to the right-facing arch high on the wall. Load the arch up with bigger cams and head for the mystery lip. Belay off of natural gear at the top. A 35 meter pitch with challenging yet reliable gear placements on perfect granite.


    This route requires an extensive rack of small-medium sized TCUs and small wires and RPs, as well as a couple of larger cams.

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