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Epilithic Wave 

Epilithic Wave 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: Jesse Hintz?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: EngrBabaKubwa on Aug 19, 2016

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The Epilithic Wave of Mental Crux. Scary and beau...


Stand-start on the huge shelf/block at the bottom, then use the edge and cracks in the face to climb the lichen-y wave up and right to top out in the corner. It's technically easy, but it's also tall, exposed, and beautiful.

The rock took a little cleaning but is fairly solid. The colorful lichen isn't really an issue for climbing, it just added aesthetics.

A more complete problem could start from the ground instead of the shelf but would be a bit contrived.

DISCLAIMER: I just moved to the area, so am not sure if I'm the first one to climb this route. Please suggest a correction if you have better info. I just didn't see any signs of cleaning or chalk when I climbed it. Also, I'm not much for grading. No promises on the V1 mark.


On the south side of the wave, there's an obvious starter shelf. Stand-start here, and climb the wave using the left edge and the crack system. You could find other routes on this boulder, but this is the obvious one.


A couple pads and spotters would be nice. If you only have a single pad, I'd put it on the ground on the downhill side of the wave, not on the starter shelf.

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