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d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Glyptodon T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Shockley's Without T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 
Vicious Rumors T 

Epiclepsy 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b X

   
Type:  TR, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b X [details]
FA: Kevin Bein, Mark Robinson, Barbara Devine, Roy Kligfield
Page Views: 436
Submitted By: Optimistic on Jul 24, 2014

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Description 

Nice 5.7-5.8 face climbing leads up to and over a big roof. [Note, we only did the first pitch, Williams describes a second pitch also]

Location 

Look straight up from the start of Strictly. The lip of the huge roof above you has some little right facing corner-breaks in it, about 12-15' right of the Strictly P1 bolts. Note, the bigger corner/break in line with the Shockley's starting corner is too far right.

Protection 

Begin by gaining the Strictly From Nowhere anchor, noting that Strictly sees a lot of traffic. Set up the bolts to TR, and step right over the tree. A directional can be set about 12' straight right of the bolts. I got a green, red, and yellow C4 right next to each other in a flare about 5' above the lip. The flare would also take a #3 C4.

This would be a mighty serious lead. There is no gear between the ledge at 2/3 height and the end of the route.


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