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Upper Shooting Gallery
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Bambi Slayer S 
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Epic In A Bottle 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Humphrey & Chris Wilson
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: pmcterry on May 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Collen on Epic in a Bottle (5.10a)

Description 

Sharp holds up six (some hidden) bolts. If the climb starts to full run out, you probably missed one of the bolts. This is the leftmost route on the upper shooting gallery, the first you come to if you are approaching from The Boardwalk.

Location 

This is the leftmost route on the upper shooting gallery, the first you come to if you are approaching from The Boardwalk.

Protection 

Six bolts to two bolt anchor. No rap rings.


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By Evan Wisheropp
May 29, 2017

Fourth bolt is hidden up and left of the third above a little shelf. I think it is a lame bolt placement that takes away from the quality of the rock. Whether you go to it from the left or right, it's trying to force harder unessessary moves just to reach the clip. Kinda lame. I've seen someone hit the ground with stretch clipping the bolt. I'd suggest just clip it with a long sling if you're worried about the potential for a clipping fall. The moves after it are easy up to the next bolt.
By Tyler Crough
Jun 18, 2017

Came here to comment on the 4th bolt placement as well, easy to miss and doesn't seem intuitive, fun route none the less just remember that 4th bolt is slightly left hidden by the shelf.

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