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US Highway 550
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Bear Creek Falls T 
Blue Condition 
Bride's Veil aka Skyrocket 
Cascade Falls 
Ephemeral Cortex 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
Ha Dov  
Horsetail Falls T 
Kennedy's Gully T 
Oak Creek Falls 
Over The Rainbow 
Unsorted Routes:

Ephemeral Cortex 

WI5 M7

Type:  Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 170'
Original: WI5 M7 [details]
FA: Chris Wright & Marc Ripperger, January 2016
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: Chris Wright on Jan 6, 2016

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Marc R. on the FA of P1 of Ephemeral Cortex.


Right next to Ha Dov and the second route on the wall, Ephemeral Cortex climbs a fleeting (hence the name) series of smears and drips up the wall to a steep, drytooling finish. Just like its neighbor, it's not a route that will be fun when dry, but with enough ice, it provides some really enjoyable climbing with just enough bolts to make it fun.

P1. Start on easy ice on the right edge of the main flow of Bear Creek Falls, and climb straight up past an ice roof and five bolts to reach the main drip seeping out from the upper face. Climb that to a bolted belay on a ledge. The drip is there most years, but the ice below it is at times quite thin (WI5 M5, 130').

P2. Dry-tool straight up and through the roof to another anchor. It is short and stout with a tricky top-out (M7, 40'). ***One note is that there's a sketchy block wedged out right under the roof that looks shaky but which I couldn't quite get rid of. If you find the right holds, you won't need to use it, but it will be tempting. I stemmed off it once I'd pulled over the roof, but I wouldn't recommend pulling on it. You'll see what I mean when you get there.***


The route is on the left edge of the wall to the right of Bear Creek Falls. There are bolts where P2 ends at the top of the cliff, though you'll want to anchor off the bridge to get to them. Two raps with a 70m rope reach the base of the route. Watch the second rap as it's all of your rope.


Bolts and screws.

Photos of Ephemeral Cortex Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: An image of the route in ideal conditions.
An image of the route in ideal conditions.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ephemeral Cortex follows the line of drips on the ...
Ephemeral Cortex follows the line of drips on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc R. on the FA of P2 of Ephemeral Cortex.
Marc R. on the FA of P2 of Ephemeral Cortex.

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