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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,425
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009

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Right at the end of the opening crux boulder probl...


This slightly overhanging, jug-covered wall, is one of the best 5.12a's at Margalef. The unassuming wall of dark cobbles hides a discontinuous, snaking like of killer huecos, split by a few thin boulder problems.

The intimidating start is not too bad once you locate the key hold. Work up to the double horizontal break, and the route's hardest move. A super-thin 2-finger pocket leads to a small incut knob, and then the first of a long chain of huecos. Hero pulls wind up to another thin section around the fifth bolt, then more jugs. A final thin section on sloping crimps guards the chains.


Around 100' and seven routes left of Magrana is an exposed, sloping ledge. This is the left-most route that begins from the ledge.


~8 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos of Entretres Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Killer hueco jugs on Entretres.
Killer hueco jugs on Entretres.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first set of killer huecos, just above the thi...
The first set of killer huecos, just above the thi...

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By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 17, 2014

Didn't find the move off the break down low to be the crux. Cruxier section was up above bolt 5 if memory serves me right, a big move. Great route and well worth a burn if in this sector.
By Caliza
Oct 13, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Amazing line... 5.12b, maybe?

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