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4 - Arch Rock
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Entrance Exam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredricks,Larry Marshik,Jim Bridwell 8/65
Season: year around
Page Views: 4,539
Submitted By: armand rollice on Feb 26, 2008

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Start of pitch 2.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Taken from supertopo. Feels like 5.10 and is good Steck Salathe training. Awkward moves around blocks occasionally interupt classic chimney climing. You may want to bring extra wide gear for the chimney runouts.

Location 

Arch Rock. 200 yards before the Arch rock entrance station

Protection 

Nuts:One set;Cams:1ea 1.5-2",2ea 3-10" (Optional:additional 10")
Rappel most routes with two 50m or 60m ropes.


Photos of Entrance Exam Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the flare/flake from the top of Pitch...
Looking down the flare/flake from the top of Pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Entrance Exam 5.9*** Don't under estamate the 5.9 ...
Entrance Exam 5.9*** Don't under estamate the 5.9 ...

Comments on Entrance Exam Add Comment
Show which comments
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Feb 15, 2009

If you don't bring 10 inch gear the first pitch is very x rated for 60 plus feet until you get good gear below the sandy slopey block pull to the first belay.
By Adam P.
From: San Jose, CA
Oct 19, 2009

I would have to disagree with Mr. Mooring's comments regarding the need for a 10 inch piece of gear. From my experience (I've done the route twice), I brought the old school BD #5, #4.5 and #4 Camalot's which more than adequately protected the first pitch. This route is a phenomenal climb, and I would highly recommend it.
By Rob Dillon
Apr 11, 2010

Knee pads!
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 11, 2010

Hey Rob, ha bummed we didnt get to chat yesterday after you did this. Knee pads big time.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Aug 24, 2012

Did this in 06. Very memorable route. I pushed an old #5 Camalot almost the entire length of pitch 2 and it protected like a dream. I thought getting past the block of pitch 3 was the crux.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
May 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The climb is very well protected. I brought cams through #6 and was able to push them most of the way on all pitches. There is only one part where you need larger gear to place (#4 Big Bro), but it is short and easy enough that if you are comfortable on this route, it is much easier to run through that section than to hang out placing a bro.

P3 crux flare was really fun to work out!

Photos leading the route.
By anthony.
From: Mountain View, CA
Nov 4, 2015

I'd recommend bringing single set of small cams down to yellow aliens on top of the big gear. They come in handy in the flare chimney on P3, and in protecting the crux move around the block on P1.
By David Bruneau
From: St. John's, Newfoundland, Cana
Oct 20, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

We learned a lot on this route. It took us about as long as the entire Serenity-Sons combo as our chimney technique was a bit rusty...

The supertopo "doubles to 10" " rack recommendation is overkill - the blue big bro we brought didn't get placed. The route protected really well with 4, 5 and 6 camalots. Agreed that it "Feels like 5.10", fist jamming over the second roof via the left crack was strenuous but still more inviting than the wider option.