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Entering Relativity 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: David and Dee Tvedt
Page Views: 2,858
Submitted By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 12, 2011

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Follow the giant flakes

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A ridiculously well bolted pitch with generally great holds and fun movement. You start down low in a short but hard dihedral with three bolts in the first 12 or so feet of climbing.

After that, romp up the rest of this extremely long route on great holds with good feet, carefully managing your body position to avoid getting pumped. Don't let your guard down though, there are one or two moves on this that are a little awkward despite the generally high quality climbing.

There are a lot of bolts on this one, so you wind up being able to backclean two or three draws pretty easily. There is one bolt near the top when you hit the big layback flake that is pretty far off route to the right. The falls are safe and the climbing secure so I skipped it. You're risking a fairly big whip but it seems less scary than traversing to the bolt.

Good first 11a for a gym climber well versed in big holds on slightly overhanging terrain. Not terribly technically difficult, mostly a fitness check, and definitely onsightable.


several routes to the right of Blackened. Look for the short little dihedral with two bolts within a few feet of each other.


14 bolts but you can backclean two or three pretty easily and you'll probably want to skip one in particular if you can handle it.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 15, 2017
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 18, 2011

Great route. Long, pumpy, and fun!
By richard magill
Jun 28, 2012

Pretty fun route! The whole thing suffers from a general sheen of near-chossiness, but everything held together and the moves were really fun. Nice long overhanging jughaul.
By another Chad
Feb 18, 2013

This route has 15 bolts not 14 as stated above and in Watts' book. Backcleaning is possible at various spots and helps with the rope drag. Using slings on a few of the outlying bolts will help with the drag too. A 60m rope will just get you down.

It isn't a very aesthetic line but the climbing is quite fun.

By pdxuller
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Way overbolted, with some weird bolt placements as well.
By BSwett
From: Bend, Or.
May 30, 2014

Fun moves, long and pumpy. But some of those holds and flakes flex quite a bit. Something is eventually gonna come loose and it won't be good, for climber or belayer....
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Sep 17, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Moves up to the 3rd bolt are probably the hardest technically, then it's a long satisfying jug haul to the anchors. Though not hard to clip, nor far from the deck, stick clipping the 3rd bolt wouldn't be a bad idea. I second the comments that the jugs felt a little on the chossy side.
By hotlum
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 21, 2015

3 star climbing on 1 star rock
By bmb Murphy-Baum
Oct 4, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Pretty fun route. I recall it having long moves to massive jugs pretty much the whole way. Felt more like 5.10+
By tsherry
From: Portland, OR
Mar 20, 2016

Fun moves on sharp rock.
By Laura Bauer
Mar 17, 2017

Really cool starting moves, and I liked the traverse and flake feature near the top, but the terrible rock quality in the lower/middle parts of the route made me really question why I got on this thing. It's all easy 10 climbing after the start so if you're trying to push into 11's go for it. The bolting is a bit weird. I skipped the very first one, and used 17 draws I believe. I had none left for the anchors though and there are only rings up there so just bring a lot of draws or back clean as someone else suggested.
By Franck Vee
Jul 15, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great, even climb. The flake at the top is sweet, not particularly hard but just a nice finish to an awesome climb. Great onsight/redpoint candidate if trying to break into those grades.
By Serial Crusher
From: A house
Jul 15, 2017

First turtlehead onsight ascent. Turtlehead verification performed by independent third party bystander immediately following ascent.

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