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Enter the Vortex T 
South Face T 

Enter the Vortex 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: P. Kingsbury, S. Davis and assistance on P1 with J. Snyder
New Route: Yes
Season: Most
Page Views: 529
Submitted By: Patrick Kingsbury on Nov 8, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

P1: Bouldery moves above two .75's in a sandbox lead to a single high bolt and more face moves to a bomber handjam and good gear (5.10+R). Above the hand jam the system leads to a bulge in a corner going from tight hands to offwidth and finally the belay (2 bolts). (5.11 R) 90'

P2: Run out chimney (5.8) and offwidth with a single 6 and green tube lead to a bolt (double length runner) at about 60 feet above the belay. This bolt marks where you must traverse out and around the corner to a blind bolt (shoulder length runner), and and into the tips to finger splitter above (11+/.12- or so). 2 bolt belay at a stance. (Don't clip the second bolt in the chimney, unless you are aiding it) (.11+/.12-R) 90'

P3: Follow steep splitter tight hands up to fists for about 40 feet, which leads to a stance and where the blue collar offwidth begins. Follow the wide, steep system for about 60 feet (5.11) to where it backs off at a another traverse and leads to the top. (5.11+) 110', gear anchor

Rap the dodger original route. (A single 2x 60 meter rap)

Location 

This is the major system on the north side of the Dodger, but cuts out to the left system half way up. (Analog of the original route)

Rap the original route

Protection 

3 lead bolts

Singles from purple C3 to .5
Triples .75 to 4
Double #5's
Single 6 (maybe 2?), (optional) green big bro
Sizes in new Camalots

Extra slings and maybe double ropes to reduce rope drag.


Photos of Enter the Vortex Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The rig.  Up the main system and then to the left ...
BETA PHOTO: The rig. Up the main system and then to the left ...

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