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Enigma with a Stigma 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch & Harrison Teuber, Sept. '15 (Ground-up)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 23, 2015

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Harrison Teuber following the last 15' on the FA.

Description 

A fun, little adventure with vast views of Little Devil's Tower, The Marina, Harney Peak, and even Rushmore. The second pitch is the real prize, and the third is the crux.

1) 5.0 60' Scramble up easiest path, aiming for chimney notch against 'Hidden Spire'. Build belay at ledge. Watch for loose blocks. I'll be honest, not the best pitch around.

2) 5.10+ 100' Take obvious crack that follows closely to the arete. Cool, short crux at the top of dihedral, followed by easier terrain that leads to a nice belay ledge. Natural anchor.

3) 5.10+ PG13 40' Traverse straight right from belay, getting good gear in horizontals. Climb up once ramp starts steepening. Find more gear out left before heading into short corner above. Excellent gear protects the bulge pull. Single bolt protects the finishing moves.

Location 

Located on N side of the Mystery Spires. Rap into gully behind the climb and scramble down.

Protection 

Doubles to #3
Singles of micro cams
Nuts/RP's
One Bolt


Photos of Enigma with a Stigma Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The mystery is drawn out for you.
BETA PHOTO: The mystery is drawn out for you.

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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 24, 2015

Cool looking route. I was staring up at this over Labor Day weekend wondering.........?

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