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Enigma Campground Route 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: It's an Enigma
Page Views: 2,202
Submitted By: jmeizis on Apr 11, 2009

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A nice blurry view of Enigma Campground Route. It ...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    It can be done as two pitches or one. I found it fine to string the pitches together. The first half is an easy slab then it moves into the dihedral with the crux being near the start of the corner. After this a few more tricky moves gain some cruising layback moves to the anchors.

    Location 

    This climb is the prominent corner (left or right depends on where you look from) above the Willams Bottom campground. Try to avoid making more trails to the base. Although it's annoying bring a second rope for the rappel. Unless you're comfortable rapping off one bolt.

    Protection 

    A set of nuts and some quickdraws for the bottom. Then cams .75-3 with a few extra #1's


    Photos of Enigma Campground Route Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying belaying below the last bolt, Mike Keegan...
    Belaying belaying below the last bolt, Mike Keegan...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the end of the bolts below the dihedral
    Nearing the end of the bolts below the dihedral
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Keegan following our version of the 1st pitch...
    Mike Keegan following our version of the 1st pitch...

    Comments on Enigma Campground Route Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Cody Drool
    From: BEAVERTON, OR
    May 21, 2011

    My buddy and I climbed this as my first night climb with headlamps. We had no topo, but he had told me was about a 5.9 [a little lie to get me to lead it]. It turned out that it was out of my ability [go figure] and I took several lead falls at the crux. I lowered off. Jonathan made it to the anchors [1 pitch, 70m rope]. He belayed me up but I struggled at the same point and couldnt complete the climb. Jonathan double rapped. We placed no gear, as we only had quickdraws. Jonathan cruised through the 'cruising layback moves' at the top, though he said some 2s or 3s coulda been used to avoid a potentially big fall. I didnt finish it but it was awesome fun . . . Oh the things youll do when you polish off a bottle of Sailor Jerry
    By Kevin Gillest
    From: Arvada, CO
    Oct 10, 2011
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Climbing this Oct 7th 2011 with Mike Keegan.
    There are a few issues of concern:
    -Second bolt of pitch 1 is missing the hanger, if you are crafty and carry narrow 24" runners it can be girth hitched, and relatively safe
    -First chain anchor is a single, there is a second drilled hole, no stud or chain.
    We linked all bolts to the first pitch, belayed at the base of the dihedral with no issues other than a short 2nd pitch. The entire route could be done in 1 long pitch, with a double rope rappel. We had left the drill in CO or we would have fixed, maybe next time.

    Really no PG13 if you can rig the second bolt though.

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