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English Breakfast Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Chris Fredericks & Kim Schmitz, July 1966 FFA: Jim Bridwell, 1971
Page Views: 3,698
Submitted By: Dennis on Feb 22, 2008

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1st pitch

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This route is similar to Midterm in that it calls upon many different techniques from fingers to chimney. The first pitch has the wide, the second involves steep, gorgeous finger jamming with an interesting and awkward finish.


15 feet to the left of Midterm.


Cams to 6", doubles in the .5-1" recommended.

Rap anchors at the top of each pitch. Definitely ok with one 70m, probably fine with one 60m.

Photos of English Breakfast Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Henry Barber 1973.. (Note piton hammer)and I follo...
Henry Barber 1973.. (Note piton hammer)and I follo...

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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Mar 22, 2010

As of march 2010- old bolts at the top of second pitch was replaced by new/good .
Also intermediate slings/cluster at the top of p1 one was completely removed. Now it is is safe to rappel English Breakfast, but you need two ropes
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 22, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Take at least 1 very large cam, and save some .5-.75" stuff for the crux finish. With a lot of slings, this goes as a fabulous single pitch.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 14, 2011

I got hosed with rope drag doing it in one pitch. I would do it in 2 pitches (next time) especially since the belay stance is pretty decent. You can get down with one rope. Large cam is very useful!
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Chris Fredericks, Kim Schmitz, 7/1966
FFA: Jim Bridwell, by 1971
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 22, 2013

Better save some juice for the top on the onsite attempt. Great, great climb.
By mpech
Nov 10, 2014

a single 60M rope gets you down from the top of the second pitch.

There are currently about 4 different 0.75 camalots stuck deep in the crack at the crux roof spot on pitch 1-- if it isn't obvious, don't place a piece of pro right at the lip!

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